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	<title>WTO - All Forums (by latest post)</title>
	<description>Latest Topics sort by most recent posts.</description>
	<link>http://woodtalkonline.com</link>
	<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:34:41 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>how to seal MDF edges</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6419-how-to-seal-mdf-edges/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have done 50/50 glue and water, then sanded smooth... messy.<br />
<br />
<br />
I have heard of drywall compound?<br />
<br />
Anything else?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:34:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6419-how-to-seal-mdf-edges/</guid>
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		<title>TV Riser with DVD storage</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6421-tv-riser-with-dvd-storage/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I am new to box and cabinet making, so I thought that I would ask the question to see if the more knowledgeable folks could tell me the best possible method.<br />
<br />
A client has a TV cabinet that was purchased from Ikea. The current flat panel TV sits on top with no problems, except she would like to raise the TV height about the size of a dvd. So the thought was to build a small platform on top of the current tv stand and create a small opening in the front just big enough for dvd's to stand up in. I am going to make this out of 3/4 plywood or MDF as it is just going to be painted white to match the current setup.<br />
<br />
See attached sketch<br />
<br />
I will be putting in a T shaped support to be the backing for the DVDs as well as extra strength using dados.<br />
<br />
My questions:<br />
Is a Rabbet joint strong enough for the top of this that the TV will sit on?<br />
Would you cut the rabbet into the top, or the sides?<br />
<br />
What joint would you recommend?<br />
Is there a traditional joint used for this?<br />
Any good (free) resources you would recommend?<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[49880]' id='ipb-attach-url-5261-0-18695900-1328562695' href="http://woodtalkonline.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5261" title="tvStand.JPG - Size: 590.55K, Downloads: 12"><img src="http://woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-5590-0-29529100-1328545079_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-5261-0-18695900-1328562695' style='width:85;height:100' class='attach' width="85" height="100" alt="Attached Image: tvStand.JPG" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:33:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6421-tv-riser-with-dvd-storage/</guid>
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		<title>Blade and fence parallelism</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6426-blade-and-fence-parallelism/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So I just spent the last hour trying to adjust blade parallelism on my inherited Grizzly contractor saw (I think it's a 1999 G0123). It was out about 12 thousands of an inch in the back. I currently have it at about 2.5-3 thousands of an inch out now but ever time I get it perfect, when I go to tighten the trunnion bolts it always comes out of true. The rear bolts are the only ones I loosened as they are the only ones immediately accessible. The front ones would be a real PITA.<br />
<br />
I'm about to start on the fence now given that the manual states that the target should be no more then 3 thousands of an inch out.<br />
<br />
Just wondering how anal I should be about this and how I can go about getting it even better. Any suggestions are appreciated.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:20:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6426-blade-and-fence-parallelism/</guid>
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		<title>How to Clean an Old Sawplate?</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6422-how-to-clean-an-old-sawplate/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi folks,<br />
<br />
I'm very new to woodworking and in fact my wife is pretty sure I'm just a tool collector...below is some background, but the question is after that...<br />
<br />
Anyway, my wife's grandmother gave me an old saw that belonged to her husband.  After realizing that getting a table saw in my little space is probably not going to happen, and I'm convincing myself more and more that I want to use handtools as much as possible, I decided that I need some saws.  After listening to old episodes of Woodtalk Online (Radio) I heard Shannon mention that he sent his Disston D7 off to Bad Axe toolworks.  I checked out the saw that I got and lo and behold...it's a Disston D7 crosscut saw from somewhere around the 1950's.  So I'd like to keep it and restore it if possible...<br />
<br />
I went to Bad Axe Toolworks' website and he recommends that I clean it up before sending it out for service.  I (sort-of) followed the directions he has (<a href='http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/cleaning-a-sawplate.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/cleaning-a-sawplate.html</a>), but am still left with a black gunk over a lot of the sawplate (see the photo for a sample before cleaning).  I don't think it's rust; I used naval jelly and that seems to have gotten rid of a lot of rust, but the black stuff remains.  I can't seem to scrape it off with a razor blade and it doesn't seem to be coming off very much by scrubbing with sanding sponges or scotch brite pads.  I don't want to scrub so much that I put scratches in the saw plate.  I started to uncover some old etching and I'd like to be able to see it when I'm all done...I'm afraid of scrubbing right through it.<br />
<br />
So three part question:<br />
<br />
1) Instead of Naval Jelly should I use something else like Evaporust or Rusterizer (I couldn't find either at my local hardware store, didn't try big box yet)?<br />
<br />
2) Is this black stuff old pitch or resin?<br />
<br />
3) How do I remove it safely?<br />
<br />
<br />
Thank you for your help!<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:12:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6422-how-to-clean-an-old-sawplate/</guid>
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		<title>Jet 707410 10in. Jointer/ Planer Combo</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6405-jet-707410-10in-jointer-planer-combo/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Has anybody used this machine. I am interested in it for the Jointer. A 10 in. Jointer for $499.99 is a deal. Does anybody have experience with it?<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:56:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6405-jet-707410-10in-jointer-planer-combo/</guid>
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		<title>Having Cupping Issues.</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6423-having-cupping-issues/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I was making a book shelf for my son, and the lumber (1-in thick pine) at the orange big box store seemed to have some cupping issues.  The cupping is making the joint between the shelf and the side of the book case have a gap and looks shoddy.  What does everyone do to overcome this, if you don't have the option to not use the board?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:55:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6423-having-cupping-issues/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Powermatic PJ-882HH 8&#34; Parallelogram jointer question]]></title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6424-powermatic-pj-882hh-8-parallelogram-jointer-question/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Well hello guys, this is my first post, but I've been here lurking for awhile.  I was looking for a little help with tool setup.  Recently my father, a devoted woodworker, purchased the Powermatic 8" jointer with the helical cutting head.  This was very good for me since I became the recipient of his old Rockwell/Delta 8" jointer that has served him well since 1983.  I should be getting that in my shop if the rain stays away tomorrow.  Anywho, in setting up his new jointer, we noticed that we were getting snipe on the last 3" of the board.  It was a pretty significant, so we began adjusting the outfeed table to fix it.  The only way we can get it to be at an acceptable level is by raising the outfeed table all the way to its max limit, its completely topped out.  This is not at all what we have had to do on past jointers and was wondering if this was normal due to the parallelogram nature of the machine or something about using the helical cutting heads, both of which are new to us.  Thanks in advance for the help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:53:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6424-powermatic-pj-882hh-8-parallelogram-jointer-question/</guid>
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		<title>White Oak pricing</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6404-white-oak-pricing/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hey all, I could use some guidance...<br />
<br />
Got a local lumberyard (Memphis,TN) offering me 100' of white oak @<ul class='bbc'><li>$2.35/bFt  4/4 FS<br /></li><li>$5.35/bFt  8/4 FS<br /></li><li>$5.35/bFt  4/4 QS</li></ul>
A buddy of mine (who knows less than I do about wood) brokered the deal, so I don't even know at this point if the wood is rough or surfaced but I have a planer (no jointer yet, but am building a planer sled to hold me over 'til I can afford one) so surfacing isn't a huge deal to me. I've met the lumberyard's owner & he seemed to be a pretty straight shooting guy. I've looked at a selection of his stock & it looked to be quality stuff.<br />
<br />
Same guy also sells 4/4 S3S African Mahogany & Walnut for $7.85/bFt ($50/board) <br />
<br />
So what's the frequency, Kenneth? Decent prices? Is he fleecing a n00b or is he offering a good deal?  <br />
<br />
I'd really appreciate any help you all can offer.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:08:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6404-white-oak-pricing/</guid>
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		<title>Is pecan wood good for......</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5816-is-pecan-wood-good-for/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My wood guy just got in a huge pecan tree.  he had it on the bandsaw when i got there.  he insisted on slicing me off a 4/4 slab that's probably 14-16" wide.  he wouldn't let me pay him a dime for it.  it's as green as it can be, so it still needs a year or so to dry.  what can i use it for?  is it suitable for a cutting board?  would it be better tasked for something else?  it was extremely heavy, but i think that was mostly because it was still green.  i just don't know anything about this species of wood.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:45:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5816-is-pecan-wood-good-for/</guid>
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		<title>Face vice - which end of bench?</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6388-face-vice-which-end-of-bench/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[OK, so I've finally got my hands on a vice/vise for my newly constructed bench. It's a cheapy, but I think it will serve me well for some time.<br />
<br />
But I'm a bit confused about a couple of things:<br />
<br />
Firstly, which end of the face of the bench does everyone mount theirs? My bench was following a plan on Fine Woodworking (<a href='http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/18985/still-dont-have-a-workbench-this-one-is-easy' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.finewoodw...his-one-is-easy</a>) but with an extra layer of MDF on top for more heft (total thickness 54mm/just over 2").<br />
Those plans have the large overhang to the left and the vice mounted to the face of that. See attached. This is what I have followed.<br />
<br />
But it seems to me that if you are right handed, and ever want to use it to saw off lengths, you are standing past the end of the bench and holding the offcut with your left hand - is this right?<br />
For planing I can see it would be ok though.<br />
<br />
Secondly, the mounting holes for the vice would mean screwing coach screws up into the surface of the bench. I'd rather not go right through with countersunk bolts and then have to cover or fill those holes on the top of the bench. If I screw up through about 3/4 of the thickness of the top with big thick coach (lag) screws and use normal wood screws to go through the back face of the vice into the back of the front apron - will that be strong enough? Am I likely to put too much stress on the screw through MDF? (I would pre-drill the holes) - I should also mention that there will have to be a spacer block between the bottom plate of the vice and the bottom of the benchtop.<br />
<br />
Cheers guys/gals!<br />
<br />
Edit: just thought of another question! How much wider than the face plates can I make my face plate wood liners before I'll get racking issues?<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:21:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6388-face-vice-which-end-of-bench/</guid>
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		<title>What you NEVER should do</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6417-what-you-never-should-do/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Talk about safety, this is an example of what not to do.... <img src='http://woodtalkonline.com/public/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':o' /><br />
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://youtube.com/v/Yp-bQQl3FWY?version=3" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed src="http://youtube.com/v/Yp-bQQl3FWY?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></embed></object>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:00:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6417-what-you-never-should-do/</guid>
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		<title>jackpot????</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6412-jackpot/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just came across this on Craigslist. <a href='http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2835857028.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2835857028.html</a><br />
Anything I should watch out for when buying used planes?<br />
<br />
What would be a ballpark price for the following planes:<br />
#4<br />
#5<br />
And a #7.<br />
Again, I'm just looking for a ballpark so that I don't get ripped off!<br />
Thanks!<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 16:53:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6412-jackpot/</guid>
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		<title>Online dealers of mouldings</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5891-online-dealers-of-mouldings/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello.<br />
<br />
Do anybody have a tip on where to buy different types of moulding on the web in the states?<br />
I am looking for the normal types but also bigger and more elaborate designs.<br />
<br />
It is important that they have a online shop with good pictures. They will only need to ship with in the states, more aprox. to New Jersey<br />
<br />
So any tips?<br />
<br />
Best regards<br />
T.Robertsen]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 16:50:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5891-online-dealers-of-mouldings/</guid>
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		<title>Spaying with HVLP and compressor</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6358-spaying-with-hvlp-and-compressor/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am building a cart to hold some of my festool systainers, it is 6'x18"x14". I am making it out of Birch ply and i wanted to get a good solid finish with some arm-a-seal satin jut to potect it.  I aslo been wanting to try spraying arm-a-seal so i figured since its just a shop cart if it doesnt work out perfect oh well.<br />
<br />
Because it is so tall i am concirned with runs a little, so the question is can i thin it with naptha so it sets a little quicker or is it a bad idea?<br />
<br />
Also any feed back on spraying varnish oil mix out of a gravity hvlp?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 15:36:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6358-spaying-with-hvlp-and-compressor/</guid>
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		<title>Is Sketchup Over rated?  Or Am I Missing Someting</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6409-is-sketchup-over-rated-or-am-i-missing-someting/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So, I've spent the last 2 days learning the basics of sketchup.  Granted I didn't know anything about it before I downloaded the program short of a lot of people talk about it, so keep in mind my proficiency is very low to put it nicely.  But, after roughly a total of 10 hours of fumbling around, I somewhat got a design for a desk that I've had in my head laid out on the computer (and it's still not all there; the desk, not my mind <img src='http://woodtalkonline.com/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />).<br />
<br />
But to be honest, I could have drawn this out on paper in probably an hour or so...  So I guess my question to the people that know a lot more about this software than I; what is the real advantage?  If a person is able to visualize an idea, throw it onto paper in a short period of time, where does sketchup come in?<br />
<br />
To me it makes sense for doing interior layouts in a home, overall building site layout, etc; (big scale stuff)..  Am I missing something, or just old school and behind the times ???<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 14:48:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6409-is-sketchup-over-rated-or-am-i-missing-someting/</guid>
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		<title>getting wood to size?</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6398-getting-wood-to-size/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class='bbc_left'>a friend of mine has told me that he runs is pieces on the jointer after he rips them to the size he needs plus room to edge joint? does anyone else use this technique? of coarse he joints one face and edge then planes to size before he rips and final edge joint. thanks guys.                                                                                                                                                                         Link                   l</p>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 14:36:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6398-getting-wood-to-size/</guid>
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		<title>Drum Sander Delta 18-36 - $550 OBO</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5471-drum-sander-delta-18-36-550-obo/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Delta Drum Sander - $550 OBO<br />
 <br />
Mobile due to added locking caster wheels. Very low miles. Have extra platen abrasive belt. Have 1 roll of sand paper. Nothing wrong with the machine. Simply upgraded to Jet 22-44 ODS because I needed a larger capacity.<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 14:25:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/5471-drum-sander-delta-18-36-550-obo/</guid>
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		<title>Can I use cedar for a canister?</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6368-can-i-use-cedar-for-a-canister/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I want to make a  couple canisters to hold flour, sugar, etc....  I want to make them out of cedar because I have some laying around. However, I'm a bit concerned over cedars aromatic nature. I don't want it to flavor the contents. If I put a few coats of poly on the inside, would this be enough to combat the smell/flavor?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 13:48:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6368-can-i-use-cedar-for-a-canister/</guid>
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		<title>Insulating a Garage Floor</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6385-insulating-a-garage-floor/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am starting from scratch in a new 900 sq ft insulated and heated garage with a concrete slab floor. I want to insulate the floor and put down a wood floor. I am looking for the optimal solution. Thoughts include 1.5" board insulation between 2x4's face down on 24" centers. Then a 3/4" T & G plywood floor either painted or with a laminate floor. I have no clue whether this is the right way to go if there is a better/cheaper/easier solution that I have yet to consider. So OK experts, what would you suggest if you could start from scratch?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:56:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6385-insulating-a-garage-floor/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Used Unisaw (90's), Biesemeyer fence, and rollers for $800, good deal?]]></title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6418-used-unisaw-90s-biesemeyer-fence-and-rollers-for-800-good-deal/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Deciding whether to take the 2 hour drive to pick it up.  It sounds like a good deal, what do I need to look before buying?  It's a 3HP 1PH.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:16:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6418-used-unisaw-90s-biesemeyer-fence-and-rollers-for-800-good-deal/</guid>
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		<title>Trimming finished cabinets to close?</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6416-trimming-finished-cabinets-to-close/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So just figured out that full overlay doesn't mean it covers the entire cabinet end. I've adjusted them everyway possible and have maybe 1/16 or less that stops both doors from closing without closing them at the same time. Should I just trim(shave) them with the tablesaw? They have already been finished so I know I got to refinish the edge again. I have a block plane but not a vise on my workbend. Any suggestions? <br />
<br />
Double door and frameless]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 11:44:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6416-trimming-finished-cabinets-to-close/</guid>
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		<title>Delta 12 in. 1/3 Hp Crosshair Laser Drill Press</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6414-delta-12-in-13-hp-crosshair-laser-drill-press/</link>
		<description>Is this a good drill press? and can I add a mortise attachment to this drill press? Any opinions?</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 04:08:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6414-delta-12-in-13-hp-crosshair-laser-drill-press/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Walnut table top</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6395-walnut-table-top/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I getting near the finishing process for a Walnut farmhouse table.  I have researched dozens of sites to be sure i dont mess this up and thought i would ask you finish experts' opinion. <br />
<br />
Here is what i want to do:<br />
1. After sanding down to 240 grit, 3-4 coats of watco danish oil with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper during initial coat.  ( I have read this paste will fill the pores nicely) Subsequent coats will only be sanded after it has dried overnight using 0000 steel wool.<br />
<br />
2. 1-2 coats of Bulls Eye Amber shellac.  Now i know most will recommend using only dewaxed shellac; however, i saw a video Marc where tried this and has not had any problems with regular shellac (not dewaxed) over oil finish.  the reason i want to use the shellac and (not dewaxed) is i really like the color the amber adds to the walnut but the amber is not dewaxed.  Should I cut this?  I think out of the can the Bulls Eys is approx 2# cut.  Based on the next step does this need to be cut down?<br />
<br />
3.  I would like to add a few coats of Poly for protection.  Is this necessary?  I have read that Watco is a mixture of oils and varnish so perhaps the protection is adequate w/o the poly.   I am not looking for a thick film just lasting protection from three hulligan kids.  Also any adhesion problems after oil and shellac?   <br />
<br />
Attached is a pic of the tabletop. <br />
<br />
thanks in advance for your replies.<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[49702]' id='ipb-attach-url-5243-0-25911000-1328562695' href="http://woodtalkonline.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5243" title="table 045.JPG - Size: 1.32MB, Downloads: 83"><img src="http://woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-6284-0-25894400-1328398524_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-5243-0-25911000-1328562695' style='width:75;height:100' class='attach' width="75" height="100" alt="Attached Image: table 045.JPG" /></a>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:38:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6395-walnut-table-top/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Made some Steady Rests</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6402-made-some-steady-rests/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[With my quest to do bigger hollow forms, came the realization that my bowl steady was just not sufficient for work larger than 10 or 12".  So, with the help of my friend Derek, we made some steady rests.  The big one is 24", the one in the middle is 20" for a PM3520 and the lil guy is 16" for a Jet 1642.  It was really nice to do something different and out of the norm for me.  These should work like a champion and allow me to do much, much bigger work.<br />
<br />
Thanks for looking guys.<br />
<br />
Roger<br />
 <br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[49759]' id='ipb-attach-url-5249-0-26240700-1328562695' href="http://woodtalkonline.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5249" title="photo(1)r.jpg - Size: 57.61K, Downloads: 62"><img src="http://woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-2682-0-31170900-1328453057_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-5249-0-26240700-1328562695' style='width:75;height:100' class='attach' width="75" height="100" alt="Attached Image: photo(1)r.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[49759]' id='ipb-attach-url-5250-0-26261600-1328562695' href="http://woodtalkonline.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5250" title="photo(3)r.jpg - Size: 63.52K, Downloads: 72"><img src="http://woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-2682-0-73481800-1328453064_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-5250-0-26261600-1328562695' style='width:75;height:100' class='attach' width="75" height="100" alt="Attached Image: photo(3)r.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[49759]' id='ipb-attach-url-5251-0-26281500-1328562695' href="http://woodtalkonline.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5251" title="photo(4)r.jpg - Size: 52.99K, Downloads: 49"><img src="http://woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-2682-0-67758300-1328453069_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-5251-0-26281500-1328562695' style='width:75;height:100' class='attach' width="75" height="100" alt="Attached Image: photo(4)r.jpg" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:14:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6402-made-some-steady-rests/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Incra LS Super System</title>
		<link>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6309-incra-ls-super-system/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I placed my order today for the <a href='http://incra.com/product_rtf_lssuper.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>LS-17 Super System </a>and table.  Amazon didn't have the 27 x 43 table in-stock so I opted for the 24 x 36 table instead.  I am just a hobbiest so, this top should be fine for me.  I plan on making my own cabinet rather than buying their stand.<br />
<br />
Anyone have this setup?  Anyone have pictures or plans of the stand/cabinet they made for theirs.  Any hints or gotcha items that I should know about? <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:13:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://woodtalkonline.com/topic/6309-incra-ls-super-system/</guid>
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