resawing without a bandsaw?

[Chester]

I felt like a idiot so I posted a drawing on sketchup to see if everybody agreed with me.

Bobby -

I can not find your posting ...

[PaulMarcel]

Bobby -

I can not find your posting ...

It's on the previous page of the thread... here's a link to the post.

[Bobby Slack]

I don't know how to post this. I used "Attach This File"

It's on the previous page of the thread... here's a link to the post.

[Bobby Slack]

Here is my latest version ... let's see

[russjohnson]

Here is my latest version ... let's see

I would worry that the long push stick could pose a kickback risk. How have you been handling that?

[Bobby Slack]

With concern ...

You are 100% right. May be I can switch the "pusher" against the fence and have a high feather board before?

I tried to put in drawings what was put in words before.

I would worry that the long push stick could pose a kickback risk. How have you been handling that?

[russjohnson]

I have not done this but I had a buddy do the method described on this Wood magazine site with some 12/4 maple. My fear is doing this will thin stock that would be unstable on the table.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/resawing-without-bandsaw/

With concern ...

You are 100% right. May be I can switch the "pusher" against the fence and have a high feather board before?

I tried to put in drawings what was put in words before.

[Bobby Slack]

Russ. Thank you. I emailed Andrew Pix from Lie Nielsen and told him what my goal was so here is his answer with my next saw ... "The 7ppi panel saw would be the best choice"

There you have it. Thank you for your help.

I have not done this but I had a buddy do the method described on this Wood magazine site with some 12/4 maple. My fear is doing this will thin stock that would be unstable on the table.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/resawing-without-bandsaw/

[Beechwood Chip]

Thank you all for chiming in and giving me some great ideas. I'm resawing away and turning out perfect little 3/32" pieces. Here are some photos of my setup.

The featherboards are not putting any pressure on the boards; I didn't "spring" the feathers. The first orange featherboard was meant as a stop for when I move the fence for the 2nd cut (I'm making two cuts on each board to get three pieces). [ edit - I couldn't get reliable cuts using the featherboard as a stop, so I turned it around and used the butt end of the featherboard as a stop. That worked well. ]

I built a push-stick sorta jig so that I didn't have to put the fence right next to the blade. I'm using a piece of scrap on top of the work-piece to hold it down. I'm also using a zero clearance insert. [ edit - I decided that holding the piece of scrap on top wasn't as safe as I'd like, so I carpet taped it to the jig. That worked nicely.]

I'm only cutting 2.5" through poplar, so the saw isn't working too hard. I'm doing it in three passes. [edit - I found that flipping it and cutting through the center left a ridge, but making the final cut full height through the entire piece left it nice and smooth. It worked well whether I did multiple passes or just one pass. I got a 24 tooth rip blade and since it was only 2.5" poplar I was able to do it in one pass.]

I hope these pictures aren't too confusing. I'm a lousy photographer.

[Bobby Slack]

Fantastic. Great way of doing this. Tanks.

Thank you all for chiming in and giving me some great ideas. I'm resawing away and turning out perfect little 3/32" pieces. Here are some photos of my setup.

The featherboards are not putting any pressure on the boards; I didn't "spring" the feathers. The first orange featherboard was meant as a stop for when I move the fence for the 2nd cut (I'm making two cuts on each board to get three pieces).

I built a push-stick sorta jig so that I didn't have to put the fence right next to the blade. I'm using a piece of scrap on top of the work-piece to hold it down. I'm also using a zero clearance insert.

I'm only cutting 2.5" through poplar, so the saw isn't working too hard. I'm doing it in three passes.

I hope these pictures aren't too confusing. I'm a lousy photographer.

[Beechwood Chip]

Quick update to the procedure I posted above:

• I couldn't get reliable cuts using the featherboard as a stop, so I turned it around and used the butt end of the featherboard as a stop. That worked well.
• I decided that holding the piece of scrap on top wasn't as safe as I'd like, so I carpet taped it to the jig. That worked nicely.
• I found that flipping in and cutting through the center left a ridge, but making the final cut full height through the entire piece left it nice and smooth. It worked well whether I did multiple passes or just one pass. I got a 24 tooth rip blade and since it was only 2.5" poplar I was able to do it in one pass.

I also gave up on sending using the thickness planer to bring the pieces down to a final 3/32". My planer wouldn't go that thin, and when I used carpet tape to hold it to a "sled" (ie, scrapwood), I took too much work to pry it off when I was finished, and then the surface was all gummed up which kinda eliminated the benefit of using the planer. When I used less tape, the piece was pulled off the sled and chewed up by the planer.

So, I just refined my resawing setup and cut the pieces to the final dimension on the saw.

Thank you everyone for your ideas.

[ScoFF]

I would take a long board and cut the thickness you need on the outside of the blade (not between the fence and blade) 3 inches high using a featherboard. I do it all the time when the strips are too thin. You just have to make test cuts for thickness. You can also plane the thickness with a planer sled but you shouldn't need to .