jhl.verona Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Still hard at it refurbishing the planes. My hands are turning an orange brown colour, and it's not the sun! As well as the 073, now resplendent, I also started on Miss Rusty - a much maltreated Stanley #5, my old Stanley #4 (some wounds from battling with plywood), a good condition Record #5, and a magnificent American Stanley #7. Which adds up to 21. Most of the work was taken up with Miss Rusty. I knew she was in a bad way, but even the plain Janes (or Jacks) have something to offer. To be honest, they're the ones that keep everything going. Beauty is only skin deep, after all. We decided (now I'm even talking to the planes) that she'd do a great job as a scrub plane. So we got started. First I got rid of the horrible paint job she'd been given, and then let her soak in a refreshing vinegar bath for a few days: Here's the partial result: I forgot to take a photograph of the final result, but there was no rust, believe me . The other peices came out of the vinegar soup in great shape: Then a trip to my local car mechanic, who for the price of breakfast gave me a can of black high temperature motor paint, which I applied with an artists brush: I'd read about it being used instead of jappaning, but sprayed. I can imagine that spraying gives a better result. It's pretty thick stuff, and all the brush marks remained. You live and learn... With a file I cleaned up the milled faces, and then used sandpaper to clean up a little: Now waiting for the blade, which is way off square, and has a 50° bevel. Sigh. Continuing in the next post, because I've run out of photograph space... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Nice work! You are a patient man. I have not allowed myself to do this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 As to the Record #5, Stanley #4 and #7, things went much more smoothly. I just lapped the soles and sides: The Record #5: The Stanley #4: The Stanley #7: And, of course, the 'working' surfaces: Curiously, none of the planes had been touched before. All the frogs and bodies have the original milling marks. Is fettling a modern fashion? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hey, Bobby. Well, it's one way of getting familiar with hand planes . Nice work! You are a patient man. I have not allowed myself to do this stuff. I didn't expect them to be users straight from Fleabay - but they were much cheaper than buying new (say 25% to 50% of new prices, depending on the manufacturer). John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Wow, John. Those look terrific. How do you like the tote and knob? Will you remake/reshape them or keep them as they are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hey Chris, Wow, John. Those look terrific. How do you like the tote and knob? Will you remake/reshape them or keep them as they are? Right now they're staying as they are - I don't have the skills or wood to do any different. What I can tell you, however, is that the tote and knob of the American #7 is head and shoulders better than the others. In fact the whole plane is in excellent condition. I didn't expect to find such a huge difference, but the #7 just begs to be held in your hand, the others just ask politely . Probably because it gets a great deal of use in the neanderthal world, or more likely the finish, which is very smooth indeed. Unfortunately I have no idea what that finish is - I've 'decided' it's Shellac, because I'd like to try that out soon. When I find a good excuse to use Shellac, I'll use it on the others, I don't have any rasps as such, so I'll probably use dowels and sandpaper - carefully. Miss Rusty has very poor handles, but I'm toying with the idea of wearing sailing gloves for the time being - they are designed for a clenched hand and don't have finger tips, so good for woodworking too. Otherwise those handles will chew my hands up in 5 minutes. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hi John, It's a great feeling to get an old plane polished up and working well. The last step to make the plane mine is to make a tote shaped to my hand and a knob to match. Probably the toughest part of rehandling a plane is drilling the hole through the tote. You need a long bit and a drill press is a great help. Carving gouges or chisels start the shaping and a round and flat rasp are very useful for adjusting the shape. You could also use a carving knife. I would not use shellac on a tote (or any high-wear surface). The totes and knobs I have made are left bare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 You could purchase a replacement tote and knob such as here and here. I’m not sure what’s available in Italy other than old tool parts sales. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobbe Arnesson Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Nice work, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hi John, It's a great feeling to get an old plane polished up and working well. The last step to make the plane mine is to make a tote shaped to my hand and a knob to match. Hmm. Tempting... Probably the toughest part of rehandling a plane is drilling the hole through the tote. You need a long bit and a drill press is a great help. Carving gouges or chisels start the shaping and a round and flat rasp are very useful for adjusting the shape. You could also use a carving knife. Ah, now I understand. More tools. Good excuse, I like it. . I would not use shellac on a tote (or any high-wear surface). The totes and knobs I have made are left bare. Nothing at all? No oil or wax? So you use Rosewood, and then move gradually up to some very fine grit sandpaper - like 500 or 1000? I think I'll try removing the finish on Miss Rusty's tote and knob. They're pretty rough as they are. Might be beech under the finish, because she's a '70's or '80's plane, I'll see how it goes. She's my experimental plane, and I don't think she'll mind. You could purchase a replacement tote and knob such as here and here. I’m not sure what’s available in Italy other than old tool parts sales. Not much in Italy, no car boot sales either. Found something similar in the UK though (it's easier with Customs if it comes from the EU). Thanks for the heads up, I have a 405 - which arrived last week - but minus the fence knob, and hadn't thought that perhaps someone still manufactures them. Nice work, well done! Thanks Tobbe - how are the chairs coming along? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 John, I use whatever hardwood i have that I like. usually what I use is dependant on having material the right size and thick enough to get a knob out of it. I've used Pacific yew, Jatoba, and Pacific dogwood in the past. I just sand it smooth and start using the plane. I don't think wax offers any benefits other than that it looks nice for a short while. Oil doesn't fare much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Wow, I'm impressed with how great those turned out. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 John, I use whatever hardwood i have that I like. usually what I use is dependant on having material the right size and thick enough to get a knob out of it. I've used Pacific yew, Jatoba, and Pacific dogwood in the past. I just sand it smooth and start using the plane. I don't think wax offers any benefits other than that it looks nice for a short while. Oil doesn't fare much better. Noted. When I get back to the job (I'm quite glad not to be breathing iron dust right now) I'll experiment with Miss Rusty's handles. Thanks for the details - I've been researching, and lacquers seem to have been the most popular finish. But that could have been for ease of application and looks. As you say, the hardest finish for hard working planes is probably no finish at all. But that wouldn't look so 'nice' on the shelves. Wow, I'm impressed with how great those turned out. Nice work. That's the power of the Internet, Chet, not me. I just followed the most reasonable advice I found. And yes, with a good deal of time (four days to date) it comes out well. As with life, either you spend a lot of money, or you spend less and do more work yourself! I appreciate your comment, knowing how much work you must have put into building your own workshop - my efforts are but a shadow of that. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Finally, the team is ready and waiting to get to work. I've had quite enough of iron filings, black hands, and the smell of vinegar for quite a while I can tell you. I had to spend some time getting the frog surfaces smooth, and grinding (I'm using sandpaper, so it's slow) all the blades - not one of them was square. Anyway 'tis done now, so I quickly put them all to the test on a piece of pine. I'm happy with the results, anyway. Here then the group photograph. Usually it's not polite to have your mouth full, but I imagine you'll forgive them: John P.S. Miss Rusty has 'blonde' handles - or nearly, as I sanded off most of the finish. So, yes, the handles are Beech and not Rosewood - not too surprising for a '70s plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 John, I think you're right that lacquer is used mainly for it's quick-dry time and nice shine. PS: You busted. 4+5+5+7+75= 96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 John, I think you're right that lacquer is used mainly for it's quick-dry time and nice shine. PS: You busted. 4+5+5+7+75= 96 Ain't that the story of my life? . John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 John, have you ever tried Sandflex Rust Erase? Here’s one of many suppliers. They may even have a supplier out your way(?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted July 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 John, have you ever tried Sandflex Rust Erase? Here’s one of many suppliers. They may even have a supplier out your way(?). Nope. Can't find a European supplier. Some of the tools are beginning to rust lightly - damned humid dungeon. Might be just the thing to set them right again. I may try sneaking them past customs... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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