Wooden Screw Install


JohnnyNoName

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Hey guys -

I was asking on the forum where to find a wooden screw to use for a leg vise on my Roubo-style workbench. I was referred to Lake Erie toolworks. I purchased the Single Kit Premium. It comes with the screw, nut, handle and external garter. I was asked to document how the install goes, so here is the start. I ordered it on September 2 and I received it today - September 9. Everything was well packaged and securely delivered.

I was thinking of buying a wood threading kit when I was having problems locating these big wooden screws. I am SO glad I didn't. The quality of the kit seems really top-notch. All of the edges are crisp and clean. The surface is very smooth inside the nut, on the threads, on the screw head and on the handle. I doubt I could have achieved this level of quality, especially in seven days.

Their aren't any installation instructions in the box or on the site. I was a little surprised by this. I don't think it would be that difficult to create install instructions for common uses (leg vise, twin screw, etc.), at a minimum as downloads on the site. I'm not 100% sure about how it all goes together, or what the proper order is, but I'm sure I can figure it out.

I need to get the board for the leg vise ready first, before I can start the install, but that should happen this weekend. Keep checking back if you want to see the progress.

Jonathan

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Really looking forward to this. I would email Erie and let them know about the lack of instructions. I don't think they would be hard to write up. Constructive criticism is always welcome in my camp and I hope they would be responsive to it as well.

You should double check one thing and that is that the nut block is square. When I installed a Big Wood Vise screw one of my two nut blocks was slightly (very slightly) out of square. A light pass with a jointer plane quickly corrected this. It didn't take much, but I didn't want any issue to crop up that would lead to me hating my vise. This would also be a really big deal with a twin screw vise.

Keep it coming.

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You should double check one thing and that is that the nut block is square. When I installed a Big Wood Vise screw one of my two nut blocks was slightly (very slightly) out of square. A light pass with a jointer plane quickly corrected this. It didn't take much, but I didn't want any issue to crop up that would lead to me hating my vise. This would also be a really big deal with a twin screw vise.

Keep it coming.

Thanks for the heads-up Josh. I will check that the block is square.

A question for you, how did you make the mortises for the nut? I was thinking of hogging most of it out with a forstner bit and drill press, and the square it up with a chisel. My other thought was a router and jig, but it seems like a lot of work to make a jig for just one mortise.

Jonathan

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It's pretty easy to install a wooden screw for a leg vise. Drill a hole in the workbench leg large enough for the wooden screw to slide through. Make your chop, and drill a matching sized hole. Slide the screw through the chop hole and then the leg vise hole, and then through the wooden nut. Draw up the vise tight, and mark the position of the nut on the back of the leg. Then attach the nut however you want: glue and screws, mortise recess, lag bolts, rivets, etc. For my workbench, I just glued the nut to the leg. It's holding just fine.

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Jonathan, I did some rooting around on the Lake Erie Toolworks site and found these instructions. I think they were trying to hide them. I hope they are of some value. I see they leave it open to the customer as to how to install the nut. Here’s a quote from the instructions: “Install the nut as you see fit (glue, screws, bolts, mortise/ slot) (See Figure 5)”. Sounds like Wilber Pan’s comment.

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Jonathan, I did some rooting around on the Lake Erie Toolworks site and found these instructions. I think they were trying to hide them. I hope they are of some value. I see they leave it open to the customer as to how to install the nut. Here’s a quote from the instructions: “Install the nut as you see fit (glue, screws, bolts, mortise/ slot) (See Figure 5)”. Sounds like Wilber Pan’s comment.

Thanks. They will be helpful.

Jonathan

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the chicken coop and lemonade stand out of the way, I finally got back to the leg vise. Today I found the widest piece of hardwood I could find in my shop. It was a 2" thick piece of maple that was about 12 1/2" x 33".

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I flattened it with a planer sled.

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I then dimensioned it. I then squared an edge and trimmed off some of the bad stuff. The final width came out to 9 3/4".

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I then laid out the board for the vise screw and the vise guide on the bottom.

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After measuring the vise screw, it turns out I need a 2 1/2" hole. Unfortunately I only have a 2 1/8" bit, so the hole for the vise screw will have to be another day. I was able to cut the mortise for the vise guide. I drilled a 1/2" hole at the top of the mortise.

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I then cut the rest with my ryoba saw. (Sorry for the bad photo)

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Next up is either drilling the hole for the vise screw in the chop or planing the vise guide, depending on when I can get my hands on a 2 1/2" forstner bit.

Jonathan

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I got back to work on the leg vise today. There was no avoiding it anymore. I had to take the top off the workbench so that I could drag the base over to the drill press. Knowing that I was going to install the leg vise later, I didn't insert the pegs into the base-to-top joints. I propped the bench on some high sawhorses to lift the legs off the ground. I then used the jack from my Ranger to separate the legs from the top. It worked pretty well. It took me about a half an hour of fidgeting, but I managed to get the base up on the drill press table and support so that the leg was square to the table.

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I got a 2 5/8" forstner bit from the local Woodcraft (The Woodworkers Club in Rockville, MD). I originally thought that I needed a 2 1/2" bit, but the directions from the website said to use a 2 9/16" or 2 5/8" bit. Let me first say that the 2 5/8" forstner bit was a little scary. I triple checked everything on the base and the drill press before I turned the power on. I managed to drill almost all of the way through, and then the drill press made an awful sound. I shut off the power quickly, and made sure everything was alright. I don't know how it happened, but the tensioning pulley somehow came loose and start to rise. I reset it and tightened down the set screw. After that was set, I check the setup and while the hole in the leg was fine, it was out of alignment from the bit now. I thought it was best to stop while I was ahead, and finish the rest of the cut with my plunge router and a pattern bit from the other side.

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Before I took the forstner bit out from the drill press, I drilled the hole in the chop for the leg vise on the drill press. No problems there.

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To finish off the hole in the leg, I sat the base down, and drilled a 1" hole from the back side with a spade bit.

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After the 1" hole, I used my router and pattern bit to finish up the hole. I was so excited to test out the screw, so I put everything together to check the fit. It seems to come out great.

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I decided to mount the wooden nut on the back side of the leg with lag screws and glue. I first pre-drilled and counter-sunk for the lag screws and washers on the drill press.

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I then put the nut back on the screw so that I could mark the holes onto the back of the leg with a brad point drill bit. I then pre-drilled into the backs of the legs for the lag screws.

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I then covered the screw nut threads and screw with paste wax for two reasons. One to lubricate the threads for easier travel, and secondly to prevent any glue that might squeeze out when I attach the nut from sticking to the legs.

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then it was go time. I put a nice even film of Titebond III on the wooden nut and threaded it onto the screw. When I got close to the leg, I took it nice and slow and made sure everything lined up. I then inserted the lag screws and tightened them and the wooden screw down.

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After the glued dried, I then slid the base back under the benchtop and eased it back down. I put the rough chop back on and gave it a test run with the screw. So far so good. Next up is installing the external garter for the screw and the vise guide at the bottom.

IMG_0080.jpg

Jonathan

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Thanks for these pictures and detailed instructions. When I build my Roubo bench hopefully I will remember where to find this info. I am reading "The Schwarzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" book "Workbenches" and I am totally sold on the Roubo with a leg vise plus a deadman and a chrochet in the front. on the right side probably a twin screw from my favorite hand tool supplier (Lie-Nielsen) and also a moxon vise that The Schwarzzzzzzzzzzz showed on Popular Woodworking's website.

My Festool tables just don't have the mass for handwork.

Thank you again for this great content.

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Jonathan,

Way to go on the installation. You are most of the way there.

I will recommend beeswax on the screw. I found that it has held up longer than my initial lubrication with just paste wax. I just took a stick of bees wax and rubbed it up and down the screw like I was playing a wash board ran it in and out a few times and "Bob's your Uncle!"

Keep the post coming, I look forward to seeing the final product.

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Thanks for these pictures and detailed instructions. When I build my Roubo bench hopefully I will remember where to find this info. I am reading "The Schwarzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" book "Workbenches" and I am totally sold on the Roubo with a leg vise plus a deadman and a chrochet in the front. on the right side probably a twin screw from my favorite hand tool supplier (Lie-Nielsen) and also a moxon vise that The Schwarzzzzzzzzzzz showed on Popular Woodworking's website.

My Festool tables just don't have the mass for handwork.

Thank you again for this great content.

Bobby -

I have drunk to "Kool-aid" too on the Roubo after reading The Schwarz's book. To me it seemed the easiest to make and the most flexible. The fact that I can clamp anywhere along the benchtop is HUGE for me. It was one of the most annoying things about the outfeed table I was using. So far I love it. I have a wagon vise on the other end. I decided not to go with the chrochet. If I need it, I can add it later. I am also using a sliding deadman. It will be the next task after the leg vise is done.

P.S. I am avoiding Schwarz's second book like the plague. I don't want to see something that I want on this bench, but can't fit. :-)

Jonathan

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Jonathan,

Way to go on the installation. You are most of the way there.

I will recommend beeswax on the screw. I found that it has held up longer than my initial lubrication with just paste wax. I just took a stick of bees wax and rubbed it up and down the screw like I was playing a wash board ran it in and out a few times and "Bob's your Uncle!"

Keep the post coming, I look forward to seeing the final product.

Thanks Josh. I will try it out.

Jonathan

============================================

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I know what you are saying about Chris's new book. I invested in mine about six months ago. I also read Workbench written by Tauton Press. Both books gave me ideas and as you say, I am sold on the Roubo because of simplicity and workability.

Bobby -

I have drunk to "Kool-aid" too on the Roubo after reading The Schwarz's book. To me it seemed the easiest to make and the most flexible. The fact that I can clamp anywhere along the benchtop is HUGE for me. It was one of the most annoying things about the outfeed table I was using. So far I love it. I have a wagon vise on the other end. I decided not to go with the chrochet. If I need it, I can add it later. I am also using a sliding deadman. It will be the next task after the leg vise is done.

P.S. I am avoiding Schwarz's second book like the plague. I don't want to see something that I want on this bench, but can't fit. :-)

Jonathan

=============================

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This past weekend, I got the rest of the leg vise installed. First I had to shape the chop for the vise. I didn't just want to have a rectangle of maple on it. I laid out a shape that I liked and cut it out with my jigsaw. I then sanded it down to 100 grit (I didn't see any point on going to a higher grit. It is just a workbench afterall). I chamfered the edges on the front with my block plane, and then eased then on the back. It was ready to go

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I got out the remaining parts to the vise screw - the brass pieces to the garter and the mounting screws.

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I wasn't 100% sure which slot to use on the screw for the garter, but I guessed that the one closer to the handle was for the external garter - which I have - and the other one was for an internal garter.

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To position the garter onto the chop, I put the chop on top of my bench, so that the hole in the chop was directly over the space for my wagon vise. With the wagon vise "retracted" it created a hole for the screw to go through. It worked very well.

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I then placed the garter around the wooden screw.

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I then traced the holes in the garter. I then pre-drilled the holes for the screws.

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Next I replaced the garter pieces, and drove the screws home with an impact driver. (sorry, I forgot to take a photo of this one). Finally I cut the vise guide and inserted it into the mortise, and glued it up.

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The leg vise is now complete.... for the most part. I think I cut the guide a hair to tall. Because the floor of my shop is so uneven, the guide is catching on the floor. I am going to use my black plane to shave some off so it moves a little smoother. I also put some paste wax on the guide to help it move in and out smoothly. Once I get some beeswax, I will try it out when the time comes for more lubrication. I think that's it. I am going to move onto the sliding deadman next. I think I will start a new thread to track its progress.

IMG_0103.jpgIMG_0104.jpg

Jonathan

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