alindsey

I'm going to convert my Performax 16-32 to use hook and loop sandpaper. Before I apply the adhesive backed hook material to the drum I'm thinking I need to give it a good cleaning to make sure the adhesive holds properly. Question is - how to do it? My initial thought is blow the whole thing out with compressed air (outside wearing a respirator, of course) then vacuum it out and wipe the drum down with a microfiber cloth but I'm wondering if cleaning the drum with either mineral spirits or alcohol after the microfiber cloth would be a good or bad idea. I'd like to get it as clean as possible but do not want to use any cleaning agents or solvents that could damage the drum material. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Much appreciated, Allen

I listed these on Craigslist but haven't had any nibbles so I thought I'd put it out here as well before I re-post. Jet DC650, older model with extra disposable collection bags - $100. Fein Turbo II dust extractor with extra collection bags - $200. Both are in good working order. The Fein has been used only in my shop to extract dust from my Festool stuff. No longer needed at this point as I have finally gotten around to buying a Festool dust extractor. The adapter used to connect the Fein hose to Festool's dust ports is included. Local pickup - Cincinnati - only. Can't ship these guys as 1) it would be cost prohibitive and 2) I'm having surgery tomorrow and will be laid up and unable to lift stuff for a while. Couple of pictures are attached. Please reply here or email me at alindsey@gmail.com if interested. Thanks! - Allen

It could be this stuff: http://www.inlaceonline.com/ We sell a lot of it to turners for inlay on bowls, etc. but it can be used in flat work as well.

My guess - something used to wind yarn? Either that, or a shavehorse for a gnome.

I've used both, though the shop made ones tend to be more purpose-made, like a really tall one for resawing wider boards. I glued and screwed, all birch ply, a fence to a base using pocket holes then added some triangle brace pieces to keep things 90-degrees. Attaching to the table was as simple as two F-style clamps on the back side of the fence holding the base to the saw's table where I wanted it. For general purpose work, accuracy and a nice price point I'd recommend the Kreg.

+1 on this. Also have used a similar product sold under a different brand: the ever so appetizingly named "Udder Butter." I dislike using it, or any kind of lotion really, on my hands as I have sensory issues but I have used it in the winter when things got too dry and cracked to stand it any more. Where it really helps me is on my feet. Probably TMI, but my feet, especially the heels, are always horribly dry and prone to cracking. Most of this is my fault as A) My feet are the only part of me that are ticklish and it seems that all of my "ticklishness" is concentrated there to where I can barely stand to touch them myself because I'll squirm, and see above regarding sensory issues. The only way I can stand to do it is to squirt some on the bottom of one foot and rub my feet together, but doing that every so often at bed time and covering my feet with socks while I sleep does help keep the dryness and cracking down. And that's more than you probably ever wanted to know about my feet, unless you really want a graphic description of a toenail fungus that I have going on as well. No? Hey, where did everyone go? I have pictures!

Unfortunately it looks like I'm not going to be able to host a meetup this time around. I'm seriously bummed about it but there's a ton going on creating kind of a "perfect storm" of impediments to my hosting. The week before I've got a class to teach, two root canals and on the 28th I'm having surgery for carpal tunnel on my left hand, now that I'm recovered from the same procedure on the right. Throw into that the actual conference, which at present Woodcraft Corporate is planning to have the Cincinnati store employees man the booth at the show and I'll likely be one of the green-shirted guys in the booth, plus my son's birthday and my wedding anniversary immediately after the conference and Rob Cosman coming to the store a week after to teach, which means I'll have a crap-ton of prep work to do, one-handed and, well you get the idea. Sorry to drop this on you all so late in the game, but hopefully there is still enough time to organize at least a get-together for dinner or drinks somewhere. Whether I can make it myself remains to be seen. I don't know how in the heck that one block of time got so busy on me.

If you ask 10 different guys how they do a CA finish you'll get 10 different answers. I don't use BLO or buff mine on a buffing wheel, but instead: Medium CA, one drop per barrel of the pen. With the lathe running at it's slowest speed, I put a drop on a cloth and quickly zip it back and forth on the barrel of the pen, maybe 5x back and forth. Let it dry, usually takes about 5, minutes, then repeat the process until I've built up 6-8 coats. After letting the final coat dry about 10 minutes I get the lathe on slow-medium speed and lightly go through the series of micromesh abrasives from 1500 through 12000. As long as I've allowed time for the CA to dry between each coat I get a glass-like finish that is very durable. Again, that's the method that works for me so take it with a grain of salt. Another guy in the store swears by thick CA, yet another uses the thin viscosity and applies it with the little plastic bags the pen parts come in. Still another co-worker uses only Viva brand paper towels and drizzles the glue onto the pen barrels straight from the bottle while holding the towel underneath and working it back and forth.

Timbermate, hands-down.

I attach all of my Festool tools to a Fein Turbo II and it does as good of a job as the Festool CT. At the time Festool was between models, 22/32 and 26/36, and I couldn't wait for the release of the newer vacs. The only edge I'll give the Festool is the variable suction control is easier to manage (turning a knob) as opposed to Fein's control (pushing a button repeatedly to increase or decrease). One tip - Fein does make a stepped adapter that fits their hose and can be trimmed to fit the Festool tools nicely, however you will need multiples of them if you have various tools because some fit over the dust port on the tool and some inside. If you can, pick up a Festool antistatic hose. It will fit every tool without the need for an adapter and the other end goes right into the Fein Turbo like it was born to be there.

They all taste like pork chops to me... I want to play with this stuff. Hopefully we'll get some in the store soon. Always looking for a better way to finish turned items, especially bowls. I've got the CA finish down on small things like pens but it's too nasty to do on anything bigger.

I can't find specs on Rikon's "Universal" mini lathe stand anywhere. Trying to figure out if I can mount a Jet 1220 to it. I wouldn't have doubts about the smaller Jet because the footprint of the Rikon mini is pretty close if not a hair larger. The price is right when compared to the cost of the stand Jet makes for the 1220 but I really do not want to buy the stand and get it assembled (Rikon's instructions are horrid) only to find it won't fit and I need to disassemble it to return. Anyone out there ever put a 1220 on this stand or know of someone who has? The stand I currently have, on locking casters, does not match up with the mounting holes on the Jet which led me to bolt a 2x to the stand and the lathe to the 2x which, even at the stand's lowest setting, puts the tool rest much to high to be comfortable unless I want to stand on a box, and I'm 6' tall.

Lift gate service would be about the same as the U-Haul rental. As far as the extra hassle, it's worth it to me to be sure when this thing is delivered someone will be there to sign for it. If I'm home, well that's dandy, but I'm only here 2 weekdays out of 5. Having it shipped to the store I know it will be signed for and by someone used to receiving power tools and will have some idea of what to look for on the crate in terms of any signs of damage in shipment. I'm going to do a quick couple of measurements when I get there today. If the larger of our skid loaders will fit in the bed of my truck with the jointer in there as well I can skip the U-Haul part of the equation. Just take the tailgate off so I don't snap it under the weight when I unload and get the jack on the ground and I'll be good.