Shelf pin fit


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==> By lose I mean the pin is .24" dia and the hole is .25"

 

The primary reason folks end-up with 'lose' pins is poor drilling technique.  If you've never drilled shelf pin sockets, practice on some scrap, get yourself a jig, etc and test the fit for yourself.  If you are really worried, Rockler, Lee Valley, etc sell pins with socket inserts that guarantee a snug fit.

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I find that the finish improves the fit. Not trying to finish the inside of the holes but the finish soaking into the wood swells the fibers slightly and then makes them stiffer when it dries. Do a test you might be surprised .

Sometimes I have to take a Q-tip and stain the inside of the holes when really light wood and a rich stain color might be distracting in a display case.

Have you checked your drill bit? Some cheap bits are not exact in size. Or try a slightly undersized bit. Metric or machinest lettered and numbered bits might come close.

And usually once a shelf and load is on the pins they stay in place just fine. I use the smallest of the stick on clear bumpers on the spoon pins with glass shelves.

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Thanks guys for the all the info.This is a budget build so pin sleeves are out.  I will try putting some shellac in the holes on my test piece and see if that doesn't snug up the fit. I am working with melamine so finishing it like Steve mentions is out. The bit is spot on .25" and the pins are .24". I am using peg board as my hole guide, so I am stuck to 1/4" dia. bits unless there is a trick that I am missing. :rolleyes:

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To improve your quality of holes and alignment try taking a new strip of pegboard and a strip of some hardwood like maple. Use your drill press to drill the maple so you have a guide that keeps your holes really straight. Crooked holes can lead to wobbly shelves .

If you end up with misaligned holes sometimes putting one spoon pin in upside down will cure it. Another fix is to wrap clear tape around the spoon until it is big enough to make up the difference.

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+1 on router bits, I made a simple jig out of plywood, drilled 1/2" holes on 1" centers 1" from both sides of the plywood jig(so the jig is the same for whatever side of case you are working on) using a 1/2" guide bushing and a 1/4" router bit I clamp jig to the side I'm working on once I've bored the holes on one side move jig to other side, rinse repeat. you'll need a plunge router for this method it's fast and repeatable and, accurate as your jig is accurate.gallery_2926_751_55010.jpggallery_2926_751_34009.jpg

gallery_2926_751_27661.jpg

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