estesbubba Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I've been playing around with some different headboard and footboard ideas on paper and this is the one my wife likes. I put it into Sketchup to get the final perspective and a better idea on what it will look like. Originally I was going to go with African Mahogany for the frame (as shown in the picture) but my dealer is out of 6/4 and not looking to order any soon. They do have 8/4 and 4/4. So instead of just the panels being cherry the entire headboard and footboard might be cherry now. Below is the headboard and the footboard will just be a shorter version with bottom rail close to floor since it will be a platform bed with storage. Also the bottom rail on the headboard might move up or down based on the final platform and mattress height. Here is what I'm thinking for dimensions: - 1 3/4" thick for the posts - 1 1/4" thick for the rails and stiles - 3/4" thick for the panel (which are flat) So here are my questions: 1. Do these dimensions sound good, and if not, what would you go with? 2. Solid wood or A1 plywood for the panels? 3. Since the top rail is curved I can't use a dado set. Would a slotting bit be the best way to cut the groove? http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/3364/slotting-and-rabbeting I plan on making a template for the top rail since I'll need to make 2 of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 looks like a good plan mike, i've got two to make when it warms up here, one cherry and one walnut. i was thinking curved rail also. would it be possible to cut the groove on the TS first before you curved it? it would have to be cut deep but i don't think it would matter, fill the extra space with space balls or some other type of material. i have used that round flexible stuff that you use to fill the expansion cuts in driveways before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I really like this design! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Just my 2 worth Mike.. I'd go thicker on the legs to give them a bit more beef which I think would be more pleasing to the eye. The router bit you show should be the cat's meow If you can find ply that you really like, that would be best for movement. If not, solid panels would work, just leave room for expansion. Cool design Mike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 21 minutes ago, estesbubba said: Since the top rail is curved I can't use a dado set. Would a slotting bit be the best way to cut the groove? I have used those types of router bits for cutting slots , and they are very prone to tearout. My advice would be to get one that comes with multiple different sizes of bearings like this one: Make your first pass with the biggest bearing then work your way deeper in multiple passes by switching out the bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 The post seem a bit beefy to me but if your panels are going to be 3/4", then the setback from the post to the rails to the stiles will be in good proportion. On a platform bed, there is no box springs, right? Will there be rails connecting the headboard to the foot boards, thus holding the weight, or will there be a "box" supporting the weight and the hb and fb just be attached to it ? Design is cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 rethinking my advice mike, fingers moving without brain engaged router bit i think would be the way to go but as andy said tearout going to be an issue, will think more and reply after brain in gear 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Agree with Kev that the legs need to be bigger. I'd go at least 12/4. I used 12/4 on the bed for junior and I think I could have gone a touch thicker. Your legs look good in the sketchup but something tells me they'd be too spindly in real life. I think all cherry would be better looking than mixing cherry with African mahogany. That combo doesn't make much sense to me. Slot cutter is what I'd use. Two passes, one from each side to make it centered. Ply panels would be easier, solid would be cooler. I like the design. Looks kind of traditional but not old-fashioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Considering the width of the top and bottom rails, I like the idea of beefing up the legs a little. Also, I would probably do to panels as vertical shiplap with chamfered edges, because I detest working with plywood. If you could grain match the shiplap, it would look pretty cool, and manage wood movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 11 hours ago, Llama said: I really like this design! Thanks Mel and I'll be sure to label the rails top and bottom! 11 hours ago, TIODS said: Just my 2 worth Mike.. I'd go thicker on the legs to give them a bit more beef which I think would be more pleasing to the eye. Updated design below with the legs 3x3. Do you think the legs will look good now that they are square or should they be wider now? 10 hours ago, K Cooper said: Will there be rails connecting the headboard to the foot boards, thus holding the weight, or will there be a "box" supporting the weight and the hb and fb just be attached to it ? Design is cool! The platform will have drawers and sit on the floor supporting all the weight. The headboard and footboard will just attach to it. 10 hours ago, Andy Wright said: Make your first pass with the biggest bearing then work your way deeper in multiple passes by switching out the bearing Thanks for the tip. 9 hours ago, Eric. said: Agree with Kev that the legs need to be bigger. I'd go at least 12/4. I used 12/4 on the bed for junior and I think I could have gone a touch thicker. Your legs look good in the sketchup but something tells me they'd be too spindly in real life. Now that I made the legs bigger (3x3) I agree with you and like I asked Kev, do you like them square as in the pic or maybe go 4" wide now? 8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Considering the width of the top and bottom rails, I like the idea of beefing up the legs a little. Also, I would probably do to panels as vertical shiplap with chamfered edges, because I detest working with plywood. If you could grain match the shiplap, it would look pretty cool, and manage wood movement. Have any pics of what you're thinking for the shiplap? I wonder if it would make the panels too busy and also rattle during adult activities Current pics with beefier legs. Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 1 hour ago, estesbubba said: Thanks Mel and I'll be sure to label the rails top and bottom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 The design looks fantastic Mike. I would go solid wood all the way. Like I said in chat, I wouldn't mix the african mahogany and cherry. Id do cherry only or use something like walnut or maple as a secondary wood. Slot cutter would be a good way to make the grooves. Will you do a journal for this build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Looks awesome Mike. The legs look much better now that you made them beefier. I personally would keep them square. I second Shane's request for a journal. I would definitely go solid wood panels rather than plywood. Probably wouldn't go shiplap, but that's just personal preference, as I prefer the continuity of one solid panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 @shaneymack and @bgreenb I think I'll do a journal because I'm sure I'll have questions along the way. Also, I found during the Roubo build that it makes you think twice before doing things because you don't want a journal full of mistakes. Plan on going solid wood for panels since A1 Goldply is $125 ($3.90 BF) and solid 15/16 is $4.60 - plus I can use the scraps for my smoker. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 11 hours ago, estesbubba said: Updated design below with the legs 3x3. Do you think the legs will look good now that they are square or should they be wider now? To my eye, that's much better! Of course I'd like a little curve on the outside but, really like the dimension! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Mike, I finished a bed last month (started the thread 11-9-15, Gen. WW, Construction Advice), and Steve, Wdwerker suggested the ship-lap panels and they worked out well. It certainly allowed for any expansion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Bed for Junior I just used regular raised panels...no different than cabinet doors. Raised panels with curves would be more challenging but pretty cool. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Google image search "shiplap cabinet back" to get a sense of what I was talking about. Eric is right, the solid panels would look great, but managing wood movement will be more challenging than with shiplap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Playing around (and struggling) more with Sketchup and did rough model of platform and added mattress. First thing I noticed was the headboard looked too short now. I raised it and extended the legs and think the proportions look better now. What do you guys think? And just for @shaneymack I'm giving this option with walnut to the wife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Looks good Mike! The walnut panels are the way to go!! Soooo nice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Check with the wife about those side panels -- at least in my experience, most like to vacuum under the bed (all those bedbugs, you know)... Although for a child's bed, panels may be just fine --- no place for the monsters to hide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Looks awesome Mike. I like the version with walnut panels, but either one will look great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 The platform are drawers so we can get rid of one of our dressers and free up space in the bedroom. The platform isn't final I just wanted to get proportions for everything. I realize the platform makes in clunky but functionality has to win here. Maybe continuous drawers so no face frame shows would look better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 ==>drawers so we can get rid of one of our dressers and free up space in the bedroom Check with the wife on those as well... Again, in my limited experience: unless clothing can be stored in sealed plastic totes, the women in my life won't store items under the bed -- bedbugs, you know... Note: it seems shoe boxes are AOK under the bed (as long as they have new shoes in them). It's always struck me odd how shoes (and to a lesser extent, purses) seem exempt from all common household rules. Actually, I'm sure shoe acquisition and storage would violate the laws of echnomics & physics, if needed... If my wife could have TARDIS to store her shoes, she'd become a Time Lord... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Raise the drawers up 3 or 4" to allow a toe kick area. This will improve the appearance as well as making the bed easier. You could make the toe kick notch into each drawer and have the drawers go deeper down to the floor. Allow for rugs and things on the floor getting in the way of the drawers pulling out. Drawers going all the way to the middle of the bed from each side will need some long slides. Or leave a long cavity down the middle only accessible from under the mattress. Great place for skis or a rifle. Build the drawer holding case sectional in case the bed needs to be disassembled to move. Those huge long sections are heavy and don't turn corners easily. I have built several of these , the first one was under my waterbed in the 1980's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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