estesbubba Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 OK, I've been looking at FWW #240 on how to build the platform and it does have a toe kick which will raise the platform. I also changed the draw fronts to make it looks like a continuous rail. I'm also thinking of putting a cove under the drawer fronts and not using hardware. Hopefully it looks less clunky now. Thanks for all the advice! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 How about building it with a conventional bed rail & then have the base with the drawers set back just a few inches? I built a bed that way & it looked pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I think the latest version looks good. Taller headboard = good. Toe Kick = good. No drawer pulls = good. Walnut = good. Unless the bed is just a full size, or it's bigger but in a huge room, take care about how deep (front to back) to make the drawers. Need enough room to insert / remove them into the cae once the bed is in the room! Now, that long center cavity that Steve mentioned is an excellent place to work in a secret compartment, maybe accessible through some puzzle-box contaption at the foot board. My folks have a platform similar to this, on a full bed, and it still has a small dead area between the rows of drawers. It is made as two cases that split down the middle of the bed, and is still a beast to move through a doorway. Even with the drawers removed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 On 1/27/2016 at 11:49 AM, wtnhighlander said: I think the latest version looks good. Taller headboard = good. Toe Kick = good. No drawer pulls = good. Walnut = good. Unless the bed is just a full size, or it's bigger but in a huge room, take care about how deep (front to back) to make the drawers. Need enough room to insert / remove them into the cae once the bed is in the room! Now, that long center cavity that Steve mentioned is an excellent place to work in a secret compartment, maybe accessible through some puzzle-box contaption at the foot board. My folks have a platform similar to this, on a full bed, and it still has a small dead area between the rows of drawers. It is made as two cases that split down the middle of the bed, and is still a beast to move through a doorway. Even with the drawers removed! Another consideration on the drawers is that if you have side tables then you can't open the drawer by the headboard without moving them (which for me would mean they never get used) You may want to size that first drawer to match the depth of your side tables, or even consider leaving a dead space with no drawer by the headboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 1 hour ago, Andy Wright said: Another consideration on the drawers is that if you have side tables then you can't open the drawer by the headboard without moving them (which for me would mean they never get used) You may want to size that first drawer to match the depth of your side tables, or even consider leaving a dead space with no drawer by the headboard I am going to make small floating end tables so we can use the full bottom for drawers. Since we're going from a queen to king sized bed we're trying to maximize floor space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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