Building a free standing linin closet

[Beechwood Chip]

I'm planning to build a free standing linen closet to store sheets, towels, cleaning supplies and an upright vacuum.  My ceiling height is about 10'.  The closet will be located directly under the access hatch for my attic.  I'm thinking of making the closet strong enough to stand on, and maybe store a ladder behind the closet.  To access the attic, you'd pull out the ladder, lean it up against the closet, and climb up on top of the closet.

My home is from the Victorian period, so I'm planning to add crown molding, raised panels, etc.  I'd probably make the back out of plywood to prevent racking side to side, and maybe add some bracing inside to prevent racking front to back.  The top would be a sheet of 3/4" plywood level with the top of the crown molding, supported by some sort of grid.

I'm not sure how to build the carcass so that it's sturdy enough to stand on.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Tom King]

I like the idea of it.  I think as long as you stack all the parts, as in the top sitting on top of the sides, if it's fastened to the wall in a couple of places it would be plenty sturdy.

[Beechwood Chip]

That's a good point, I wasn't planning to fasten it to the wall.  But that would prevent racking both side to side and front to back.

Because of the baseboard, there'd be an inch between the back of the closet and the wall.  Unless I build it specifically to match the profile of the wall.  I guess I could do that.  I'll look at ways to design the base that allow the back to be flush to the wall and still look "traditional".

Thanks, Tom

[Von]

My first house had the attic access in a closet with plywood shelves. I climbed those shelves a number of times with no issue, granted I was a little lighter then.

The two concerns that come to mind with a free-standing unit would be making sure it doesn't tip when you climb the ladder and then it doesn't rack with weight on it. I think a properly constructed plywood box will be strong enough. I'd probably add some extra bracing in the top and bottom corners to make sure it doesn't rack.

[wtnhighlander]

Is there space enough for the closet to hold the ladder inside, maybe hung inside the door? If the cabinet attaches to the wall, it may be difficult to store a ladder behind it.

[Beechwood Chip]

I'm embarrassed - I looked at the space again and the closet won't block the attic access at all.  Thanks for the ideas and sorry that they were  irrelevant.

OK, new plan.  Just looked at my space and the closet will not be under the attic access hatch.  So, I'm just going to make a standard free-standing piece of furniture.

Looking at ads for inspiration, it might be convenient if this could dis-assemble for moving. Especially since my shop is in the basement and this is going on the 3rd floor.

https://www.harpgallery.com/shop/item41283.html

I could see the base and crown coming off, but how could the cabinet dis-assembled?  I haven't had good experienced with IKEA style cam lock fasteners.

 

[Don Z.]

Honestly, you don't need cam lock fasteners.  I have an Art Nouveau cabinet that I've moved a bunch of times.  It completely disasembles.  Overall dimensions about 18 inches deep, six feet wide and maybe five and a half high.  It's divided into three vertical sections: the center section is about twice the width as the two side sections.

The base is quite sturdy/heavy.  Picture 3/4 inch ply, sitting in a frame about two inches thick and two or three inches wide.    There are dowels where the vertical pieces "sit" in place.  The sides and center dividers all have holes in their bases... and their tops.

The top is also quite sturdy, and also has dowels.  To assemble, place the vertical pieces in the dowels.  Place the top over the uprights.  I should mention that the dowel/hole fit is reasonably tight.  Gravity holds it in place.  There are some back pieces that slide into dados, and the doors screw into piano hinges.  

Assembled, there is no racking and no play.  I'm sure the overall width and total of four uprights help.  But it was probably close to 100 years old when I bought it (who knows how many times it's moved before then) and I've moved it at least five times.  I'll see if I can find a photo.

[Beechwood Chip]

Thanks!

The wardrobe in the link I posted is 56.5" wide, 21.5" deep and 86" tall, and is mostly one large box.  I guess by "disassembles" they mean that the base, top, and doors come off.

[wtnhighlander]

If you don't actually require the internal space to be a single large cavity, you could also build it as two boxes that join in the middle for disassembly.

[Mark J]

11 hours ago, Beechwood Chip said:

I haven't had good experienced with IKEA style cam lock fasteners.

Would Kreg jig and screws work?

[Beechwood Chip]

On 5/20/2024 at 8:47 AM, Mark J said:

Would Kreg jig and screws work?

Maybe for the first few moves, but I think the wood would get chewed up.  Then I could drill out the holes, glue in dowels, and it's good as new.  It's a good idea. 

Also, I could split it down the middle.  All good things to think about.

Thanks!

 

[Ron Hampe]

That sounds like a cool project! I'd suggest using 2x4 lumber for the frame to make it sturdy enough to stand on, especially since you're planning to store a ladder behind it. Adding plywood for the back and some bracing inside is a smart move to prevent any wobbling. For the top, a sheet of 3/4" plywood supported by a grid sounds like a solid plan to distribute the weight evenly. As for the Victorian style, adding crown molding and raised panels will definitely give it a classic look. Do you have any specific ideas or concerns about how to tackle certain aspects of the build?