driving me crazy, long narrow & thin


Dan S

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I just through some Peruvian walnut into the scrap bin, because it moved to much. Long narrow thin boards and I don't get along. My latest project (picture frame) required 4 boards that where 1-3/8" wide by 3/4" thick. Two had to be 34 inches long and two 40 inches long. Normally, for pieces like this i start with 5/4 or even 6/4 stock, and do 2 or 3 milling steps with 24 hour rest periods between each. This almost always yields nice strait stock, but take a while, and is pretty wasteful. Since I was starting with 4/4 stock i decided to do it all in one pas, and just make sure I took equal amounts off both side of the boards. Needless to say, It still moved, and I now how have some pretty fire wood. At least it was only $30 worth of wood.

Anyone else have problems with long thin narrow boards?

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For strips like that, especially for a frame where you need them straight, I'd resaw them first and glue them right back up with plastic resin glue. Do your planing afterwards and straight-lining. The plastic resin is very rigid and you're kinda making a 2-ply laminate doing this. Helps greatly. Also, don't dimension until the plastic resin is really cured or very nearly so or it can still move. Give it 3 days or, in Arizona heat, 2-3 minutes.

I did this for a recent frame that had 4' stiles and 5.5' rails. I also mounted the painting on thin MDF and tacked that into the frame so that will help ensure it stays rectangular. But prior to mounting, the sides were all just fine, which was 2 weeks after gluing.

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I agree with Paul. Many years ago I had a problem with some Rock Elm I was building out of, needless to say by the time I was done all the rails and stiles (and there were a lot of them) were resawed to 1/4" and laminated back together. The vanity that caused me to go bald is still in our bathroom and everything is still perfectly straight. I can't remember for sure but I would assume that I used regular titebond.

Nate

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