rgdaniel Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Hi folks, I'm just in the finishing stages of a medium-sized walnut jewelry box. I decided to apply flocking to the bottom of the box and inside of the lid, which I have had some success with in the past. This time, for whatever reason, my masking job was a bit too conservative, and I've left about a 16th to a 32nd inch of the pale wood bottom showing in several places around the perimiter, in obvious contrast with the walnut sides and the royal blue flocking. So I'm wondering how to deal with this: 1) Try to get more of the blue flocking adhesive just in those little gaps, and blow some more fibres in. Could make a huge mess of the existing flocking? 2) Make and fit some "quarter-round" style (but way smaller, maybe 3/8") walnut molding around the bottom, glued to the sides I guess, and covering the gap. Means notching the eventual dividers (not built yet) where they meet the sides of the box, to clear the molding. If the molding is rounded over, the notch is a wee bit trickier. If the molding is chamfered, the notch is a bit easier. But that's splitting hairs, probably. 3) Make the dividers with a kind of frame around the outside, like a bottomless tray, so the frame covers the gaps. And also covers more of the walnut. A tray will sit on top of the dividers forming a second level, but that shouldn't be a factor here. So how would you guys deal with this flocking dysfunction?? Thanks in advance, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bywc Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodhack Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 2 Yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 2 - I'd take some appropriate scrap wood, maybe some 1x1, and put a 1/8" or 1/4" round over the corners with a router table, or maybe with hand tools. Then, cut to length and finally use a table saw to cut out little quarter round strips. The table saw should make non-through cuts, as if you were cutting a rabbet, but in this case you are keeping the the little corner cut-out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runningwood Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 They sell spray or powdered flocking that you can use to try to match the color to fill the voids. try Michaels or online craft stores or here is one example http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v497-1741/finishing_supplies?s=GOOGLE&gclid=CLiQ5cW6x6oCFRd25QodnWW71g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Thanks folks... not getting email notification of replies, so just seeing these now... looks like #2 is the winner... which I kinda figured, and was rooting for... but I just had to see if I was missing anything obvious... thanks again, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 I like number two also, but what about making wider dividers? You stated they aren't made yet, but it should allow for coverage without molding.... unless I misread the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Thanks jHop... basically that's number 3... normally the dividers would form an open grid, like a tic-tac-toe grid, that would allow the gap to be visible... number 3 is about enclosing that grid with a frame of dividers (normal 1/8th inch would be enough to cover the gaps, I think)... but I wondered if that would make the dividers too dominant a feature, at the expense of seeing more of the walnut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I also vote for #2 but you may want to do the dividers first, then fit the trim that way you don't have to notch out the dividers. Just a thought. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Oh, that's brilliant! And just in time, too... I've milled up the moldings but pausing just now for a break... glad I checked online!!... so yeah, the way you suggest, it's all just straight cuts (except the corners) and easier to fit the molding segments... bit fussier to glue them all, but that's a decent tradeoff I think... should be a cleaner look, too ... thanks for the suggestion!! I also vote for #2 but you may want to do the dividers first, then fit the trim that way you don't have to notch out the dividers. Just a thought. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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