bignoise Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 I'm making a table top for a friends boat. I'm using marine ply, banded with solid mahogany and inlaying a compass rose of 6mm walnut and beech. I plan on fitting the inlay much the same as Mark did in his video where he inlayed the leaf pattern. I'm not sure what type of glue to use for this however. The boat is kept outdoors with a cover on it in the winter temp up to -30 Celsius and when used in the summer temp can be up to +30 Celsius. Any advice on what glue to use that has good waterproofing and resistance to temperature fluctuations? Also I'm not sure what finish to use to give the table top a good seal, any advice on finish taking into consideration the above extreme Finnish climate would be great Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 TB2 or 3 is fine. Spar is usually the finish of choice for boats. It is more flexible so allow more expansion and contraction over time with out cracking the finish. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignoise Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Hey, sorry for the late reply. Why Tightbond 3 and not a polyurethane glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Hey, sorry for the late reply. Why Tightbond 3 and not a polyurethane glue? Poly glue is nasty and makes a mess. Maybe for a picknick table or outdoor furniture but not for an inlay. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicks82 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Hey, sorry for the late reply. Why Tightbond 3 and not a polyurethane glue? Given that you are working with Ply and doing inlay and veneers poly is not really the best way to go given the way it foams. There is always a residue and needs a good sanding before finish which can lead to you burning through the veneer on the ply. Titebond 2 and 3 are both water clean up so if you have some squeeze out just get a clean wet rag and wipe it clean. Also since you are going to be doing a marine grade finish (spar varnish as don said) you really don't need worry about the glue being 100% water proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I would go with Titebond3 if you had to buy some, but Titebond2 I'd I already had some on hand. Definitely spar varnish or maybe CPES - Marc has a few great videos on TWW site about varnishers and sealers, and you might want to check it out. Will the table be outside (as in out on the deck) or located down inside a cabin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignoise Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 The table is at the back of the boat. it's under a canvas cover so sheltered from the weather. The canvas is only opened on good days. One more question as I have never done veneering before. I currently have all 8 segments of my compass rose taped together with blue tape. Do I use veneer tape or just leave insert them into my cut out in the table in individual sections bearing in mind that they are thick veneers (6mm) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicks82 Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 One more question as I have never done veneering before. I currently have all 8 segments of my compass rose taped together with blue tape. Do I use veneer tape or just leave insert them into my cut out in the table in individual sections bearing in mind that they are thick veneers (6mm) So I am not an expert by any means on inlay or marquetry but given they are thick i would glue them together. I personally use Titebonds (TB) Moulding & Trim wood glue because it is very thick and has a quick initial tack and set time and it dries clear. You can use TB 1, 2, or 3 also I just happen to prefer the other for this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Z. Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 CPES is not UV resistant... best way to go would be CPES, followed by spar varnish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 When Norm did his small boat project on NYW, he used epoxy for everything; glue AND finish. I would think you couldn't get more protection than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Reuten Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I would agree with the Tightbond III suggestion. It will be the easiest to work with and leave a neutral wood tone in any visible glue lines. One item I'll mention is that it does not take stain well. Learned that the hard way on a highboy I built. Epoxy penetrates too much and will show bleed into the veneer of the ply. It will also be difficult to clean up without messing up. Great stuff for many applications but not the best for this one. When you get to the spar varnish, buy the best available to you. I personally prefer Epifanes and Le Tonkinois. The latter is a little easier to apply than the former but is not quite as glossy. In both cases I refer to their basic traditional spar varnish. Each has a few other product varieties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Personally I would do the inlay and sealing/buildup with a clear epoxy (west system 105 & 207 hardener) and finish off with a good quality spar varnish (Pettit or Epifanes) high gloss. VIP, the epoxy has to be a clear (not the standard run of the mill stuff). This is typically determined by the hardener... This epoxy / varnish combo is an excellent marine finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Reuten Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Andy at Boatworks has made a good suggestion, which will have a high level of durability. I almost never use epoxy as sealer which is why I did not recommend using it as an adhesive in this situation. By using the epoxy as a sealer, any bleed in around end grain will disappear. Pay close attention to the recommended hardener and varnish. I use the West System products myself and have never had any problems with them. The product guides are excellent. The only other thing I might suggest as an option is to use a polyurethane rather than a spar varnish because it is more heat resistant. Wouldn't want hot toddies wrecking your hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 The only other thing I might suggest as an option is to use a polyurethane rather than a spar varnish because it is more heat resistant. Wouldn't want hot toddies wrecking your hard work. Excellent point. Varnish tends to be a little delicate (both with scratches and heat). A poly finish would be a better choice, and it's a compatible finish over the West System.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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