Another sharpening question

[thedanielmatt]

Hey Fellas,

*Skip this paragraph if you don't care about the back story

Going on 4 years and still very slowly building up my shop and until very recently was barely getting by with a lame attempt at sandpaper sharpening. I decided to go the next step and went with a 1000/6000 water stone. HUGE difference for me. Was wondering how I got along without it. However, I also recently upgraded from a few really beat up chisels and had a heck of a time trying to flatten the backs of the new ones with the 1000 grit stone (it seems the chisel backs were pretty concave...Wood River set on big sale).

So, I've been exploring the possibility of a DMT duo-sharp addition for the purpose of flattening blades and stones. Curious though, would the course/extra course be a good choice for "re-grinding"/fixing the bevel on chisels/irons as well?

Funds are very limited (75% of my tools are hand-me-downs) so I like to over-analyze every purchase . And I know there are probably cheaper alternatives, but I'm a "buy-it-once" kinda guy. However, I also need this thing to be multi-purpose to even start to justify it.

Anyway, what say you?

[Skunkeye]

1000 grit is definitely not aggressive enough for flattening chisel backs or plane soles if you have to remove much metal.

I like 220 grit adhesive backed sandpaper stuck to a flat surface (tile, glass, granite, jointer table, etc.). This method is cheap and flattens things quickly, especially if you use a long strip of the sandpaper.

I tried flattening a Groz plane starting with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a short surface once...so I feel your pain.

[duckkisser]

most realy good blade sharpeners are a one purpose tool. but that one job they do very very well.