Workbench, Choice of Woods?


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I just joined Wood Whisperer.com and thought....

I really need a decent workbench and the Roubo looks perfect! My problem is I priced out the wood and it is a bit on the expensive side. Being new to any serious woodworking I was hoping for a little guidance before I drop the coin.

Eastern Maple (Hard Maple) in Vancouver is $6.25 / BF, is this a good price? Is it a rip off?

This is for rough 8/4 quarter sawn.

Should I be looking for Rift or Quarter sawn wood for stability?

If I choose another alternative for the top of the bench but also want a hard surface what cheaper alternatives are there?

If I want to use something less expensive for the base what would be a good choice?

Hoping to get some guidance and advice before I drop the coin on all this wood.

Stephen.

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That's a decent price for maple. Not fantastic, but not a rip off either.

Quarter sawn is prime. If you are ripping and flipping for a glueup flatsawn works too, as it becomes rift or quartersawn grain when it's ripped.

The best tops are considered to be a hard wood light in colour. Maple and Beech are top contenders, followed by Soft (bigleaf) Maple, which should be cheap in your area, or Eastern Birch.

Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine have been used successfuly, as almost every other wood out there. I've seen Ash, Oak, Cherry, and Mahogany benches. It's more about cost and availabilty than anything.

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$6.25/BF seems expensive for maple in this area, but it's plentiful here. Is that pre-dimensioned or rough sawn? Rough sawn can save quite a bit, even if you have to pay the supplier to surface it for you,

+1 on Darnell's list of choices. My last wood purchase was ash @ $2 bf for rough sawn lumber delivered....hard, stable, affordable, and attractive (IMHO).

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i have seen alot made from ash it goes for rough cut around 2$ in my neck of the woods. i would stay away from soft woods since you will be hammering and digging away at projects on the surface. if the wood underneath is soft you will end up denting the top deep and often and that can throw off your cuts.

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Given that you're in BC, Douglas fir would make a viable alternative. It's a stiffer wood than maple, though it's not as heavy, nor as hard. But it should work just fine, and best of all you can pick it up at Lowes, Home Depot or Rona since it's construction lumber. I made my bench a few years ago out of southern yellow pine and it works quite well. Maple is certainly pretty, but it's not a "need". There are a lot of myths about softwoods, and while I wouldn't want to make one out of white pine, douglas fir and syp are certainly viable.

While they're softer on the janka scale, douglas fir and southern yellow pine are stiffer than hard maple. Douglas fir is a little lighter, and southern yellow pine is heavier than maple. In the several years since I made my bench denting hasn't been a significant issue. You may need to flatten the top a little more often than if you go with a harder wood which is a bit of a compromise. But for stiffness and heft (i.e. the bench doesn't sag and won't move under use) both are certainly acceptable alternatives. Don't forget Chris Schwarz may not always build work benches, but when he does, he prefers southern yellow pine :).

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What Douglas Fir do you guys find at Home Depot? All I can find in x2 is SFP and the only Kiln Dried (other stuff is WAY too green) is 2x4. I did find some x1 S4S Douglas Fir at Home Depot but it was very expensive. I could buy it cheaper in quantity at my local hardwood supplier as rough or S1S. Are you gluing up x1 laminations for workbench tops?

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What Douglas Fir do you guys find at Home Depot? All I can find in x2 is SFP and the only Kiln Dried (other stuff is WAY too green) is 2x4. I did find some x1 S4S Douglas Fir at Home Depot but it was very expensive. I could buy it cheaper in quantity at my local hardwood supplier as rough or S1S. Are you gluing up x1 laminations for workbench tops?

It depends on where you live and what's local. Douglas fir iirc is a common construction lumber in northwest Canada, so you should be able to get it in 2x10, 2x12's there. Down here in Texas for instance southern yellow pine is available cheaply and in sizes up to 2x12 up to 16 feet long.

Duck, remember that douglas fir, like southern yellow pine is harder than other firs/pines. It's not as hard as maple, but in the three legged part of stiffness, weight and hardness they stack up fine. Southern yellow pine for instance, other than hardness is a superior bench material than maple (it's heavier and stiffer). Eastern white pine on the other hand would probably be okay for an undercarriage, but it's too soft, too light and not stiff enough for bench use. Plus if hardness is all we'd care about we should make a bench out of ipe :).

With respect to the hardness, I've used a southern yellow pine (janka value of 690) for several years, hammered, chiseled, planed etc on it and denting hasn't been that bad, the top needs to be flattened every couple of years (if I got more shop time, I'd say yearly). Douglas fir in comparison has a janka scale value of 660. Hard maple is significantly harder and wouldn't need to be flattened as frequently, but it doesn't negate the others as viable.

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I can get Douglas fir here in Vancouver quite easily but I think I will need to think things through a bit more. Pricing is close for:

- Ash $3.68 BF flat sawn

- Douglas Fir $3.00 (2x6,s) flat sawn

- Douglas Fir $6.07 (2x6's) quarter sawn

- Poplar $2.27 BF flat sawn

I am also thinking about Soft Maple now and it is more reasonable at $4.25 BF

I suppose I can get good stability by gluing face to face and keeping the top at 4" thick. Flat sawn is about 1/3 the cost of quarter.

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seems kinda pricy at least it is in illinois you might want to shop around a bit more. unless you dont have much lumber supplying in your area. might find a one man mill who will give you a better deal. near by guy quoted me 2.00 a bf on ash. maybe buy from a mill rather then buy from a lumber store cut out the middle man.

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I am also thinking about Soft Maple now and it is more reasonable at $4.25 BF

I had my local dealer order 200bf of soft maple for my bench. It's coming from up north...probably not the Pacific Northwest, but I think you can probably find a better price if you keep looking. I ended up paying $2.70/bf. If you can't get the soft maple as cheap as the ash, I'd personally go ash over any softwood.

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I need a new bench but my shop budget is zero till after the holidays. I've got this stack of red wood 2X6s and 4X4s for a planter box that I no longer have to make (long story for another time). I was thinking of making a small bench for my vacuum press with it but somehow I don't think some of you would recommend that. ;)

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I’ve heard that clear heart pine is a good wood for workbenches. Also long leaf southern yellow pine if you can find it.

Bob Rozaieski who’s website is Logan Cabinet Shoppe made his workbench from construction lumber purchased at a big box store. Here’s a link to a video he produced about how he likes his bench a year later. Bob is a hand tool user only.

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Onboard, wow! Logan is one serious hand toolist. Enjoyed the video, liked his comments on hight, the centre stop, and a few other items. I think I would like a bit harder top than what he used and I will be making mine a lot thicker than his bench so I avoid the same pitfalls he pointed out. Thanks for the link, great video and good to see a real committed hand toolist.

Stephens_Shop.

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I’m happy you liked Bob’s video. As he pointed out, the only reason he wanted a thicker top, in hind site, is his use of the traditional hold fast. If he didn’t use the traditional type of hold fasts, he would be happy with the thickness as it is at 1.5”. I guess he could use something like the Veritas Surface Clamp (spendy!). Even though he talked about a full 8/4 as being sufficient for his use, I think I would like something more like a 12/4 thickness.

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post-2926-0-05106500-1307335035_thumb.jp

I built my roubo from construction grade lumber because that was what I could afford it is a little soft, and does ding, but so what it's a work bench it's not furniture. My bench weighs around 500LB's total cost was maybe $300 including vices I bought a grizzly end vice for like $60, and a screw vice from lee valley for $40. you can spend a fortune on a bench, or you can approach it in a more conservative mind set and you'll get a more affordable bench that will work nicely for years to come.

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I am looking at doing the same thing, only I have decided to use yellow poplar. I can get some high quality dry yellow poplar at $3/bdft. Which makes it a lot more affordable than maple. If I could find some quality Douglas fir I would go with that but all of the construction grade lumber that I've looked at is rife w/ knots and I don't want to deal with that. Go with flat sawn, because when you rip the boards and stand them on edge to glue them up the top will be all edge grain.

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I built my roubo from construction grade lumber because that was what I could afford it is a little soft, and does ding, but so what it's a work bench it's not furniture. My bench weighs around 500LB's total cost was maybe $300 including vices I bought a grizzly end vice for like $60, and a screw vice from lee valley for $40. you can spend a fortune on a bench, or you can approach it in a more conservative mind set and you'll get a more affordable bench that will work nicely for years to come.

Higtron, I clicked on the thumbnail of your bench picture, but the bigger picture wouldn’t load. I looked at the URL under the picture properties and it’s pointing to the thumbnail picture itself. Kind of self referencing. Just an FYI. Thanks.

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Stephen, the prices you quoted are in line with what I pay here.

Poplar is an attractive option, it comes clear, wide, and cheap, but it's pretty soft. I'd avoid it, paticularly for the top.

I invented a cam-action holdfast I call the Bench Bunny that you might like. I wrote a three page how-to. 1 2 3

P1520138.jpg

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Just thought I'd throw this out there. I just recently stumpled across a big old pile of black walnut for free!

Originally I was going to build my Roubo from traditional maple, but then I though... "Hmmmm.... I have this Walnut?"

Would I be the biggest idiot in the world to make my Roubo Bench out of a wood which is as dark in color as Black Walnut?

It is very tempting because I think it would look awesome! Sort of like Frank Klausz's European style workbench. But most people tell me you have to build your workbench of out light colored wood so it will reflect the light.

What do you all think? How important is that really?

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