Dan S Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Ok all, so its time to bite the bullet, and build some "real" projects. I have been working on this end table design for a couple weeks now, and it's time to get some opinions. These night stands are my inspiration, I love how the legs are at 45 degrees to the case. http://www.custommade.com/walnut-night-stands/by/nealbarrettwoodworking Right now I'm thinking Bubinga or Jatoba for the top, legs, and aprons, and then Peruvian Walnut for the side slats, and the bottom shelf. what do people think?Model_002.skp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 My first thought was that I really liked it! My second thought was that the slats on the bottom shelf bothered me. I think it's too busy with the slat pattern showing through the side spindle pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Your design could not come on a more convenient time. With your permission, can I build it for my mom? I tend to agree with Beechwood Chip. A solid bottom self would look better. And what about a rising table top. Like this......my modified version....with your permission of course. Table mod..skp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric71m Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I agree, solid bottom. I love the design... Just might have to borrow your design some day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Johan, by all means use it if you like. How would you guys make a solid bottom? I'm not seeing how it could be done with solid wood, as a panel that wide is going to expand an contract a lot with humidity changes, and I want to avoid using plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Either a plywood or solid wood panel, in a frame. If you are using solid wood, then don't glue the panel into the frame and leave room for wood movement. I'd use plywood, since the edges will be completely hidden by the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I'll have to think about this, because the panel is 17 1/4" wide and a panel that wide can move a lot I did some quick numbers, and looks like worse case i would need to be able to handle 1/2" of movement. Bubinga 5% Flat: 1/4" Rift: 7/32" qurt: 3/16" Jatoba 5% Flat: 1/4" Rift: 7/32" qurt: 1/8" Peruvian Walnut 5% Flat: 5/32" Rift: 1/8" qurt: 3/32" Bubinga 10% Flat: 1/2" Rift: 7/16" qurt: 3/8" Jatoba 10% Flat: 1/2" Rift: 13/32" qurt: 9/32" Peruvian Walnut 10% Flat: 11/32" Rift: 9/32" qurt: 3/16" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Make dadoes where the bottom are connected to the bottom rails. A dadoe allow for wood movement.Table mod1..skp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 You could fix it so the solid bottom sits loosely on brackets that are attached firmly to the end table's lower rails. Look here for pictures of a similar piece that handles the problem that way: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/38868 -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Johan, I had considered a dado, I'm just worried, that with all the slats + the dado, that the top of the aprons would be fragile. Russ, I like that option, I will need to mock up a version like that over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Yes, I think Russ suggestion is very good. By the way, your sketchup abilities are impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 In my opinion it's a little busy. I think I'd prefer it without the spindles. You may want to pull the aprons and stretchers out a little bit, otherwise your tenons will have to be pretty short. I really like the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Ok all, so its time to bite the bullet, and build some "real" projects. I have been working on this end table design for a couple weeks now, and it's time to get some opinions. It looks a little bottom heavy right now. Either make the top thicker, the bottom stretcher narrower, or both. Right now I'm thinking Bubinga or Jatoba for the top, legs, and aprons, and then Peruvian Walnut for the side slats, and the bottom shelf. Eventually, sure. There's a whole world full of exotics that would look great in this table. But the design is such that I'd strongly consider making a prototype out of something cheap and discardable: Poplar jumps immediately to mind. I count at least three curves that would need templates made and proven before I'd feel happy breaking out the 'spensive stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Darnell, I had the same thought, but I'm kind of thinking since these aprons are 4-1/2" tall, the height, will make up for the shorter length. I'm working on a Sketchup model right now with all the joinery in it, and will see what it looks like without the slats. It would definitely mean I wouldn't have to make nearly as many mortises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Way ahead of you on this one, got some 4/4, 6/4, & 8/4 Poplar out on the rack for this very reason. Poplar jumps immediately to mind. I count at least three curves that would need templates made and proven before I'd feel happy breaking out the 'spensive stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 So i have been playing around with this most of the day, what do you guys thing? I made the tenons longer, the legs wider, and I think the dado is the better way to go, as it will fully hide my attempt to deal with the wood movement. Two concerns/questions I have, are will the top of the apron role, and will the mortise be strong enough, Opinions?play.skp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 will the top of the apron role I don't understand this. You must have a typo??? -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I don't understand this. You must have a typo??? With regards to aprons I have heard it called role, but essentially sine the top 1/3 of the apron doesn't have a tenon, it can twist, or cup, or role relative to the rest of the apron. A full height tenon, or a haunched tenon acts like a breadboard end preventing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Interesting. I had never heard that use of the word "role" before. I suppose the real answer to your first question is, "the wood is going to do what the wood is going to do." And never having dealt with bubinga or jatoba, I don't have a clue how they actually behave. Having said that, my gut says don't worry about it as long as your stock is reasonably dry and stable when you start. Just for reference, the table that I referenced above is constructed in much the same way, and the tenons on it are less than half the width of the aprons. So I don't think you have anything to worry about. Same with your mortises. I think they're fine. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 I finished up a joinery level model tonight, let me know what you guys think.modelRender.skp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Dan Sorry for the late reply. I like that design. It looks clean and more elegant than the previous designs. The slats on the bottom are gone and so the spindles. And the joinery would not be a problem. I did look in the inside of the drawer. You are using dovetails. But what about a floating top? It would look very nice IMO. And the corners should be rounded. It will complement the whole table. Did you already starting with this project? If so, keep us posted. Johan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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