rpike Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Ok everyone, thanks in advance for you ideas. Here's an overview of my project. I'm building a 96"x70" cherry bookcase. The case will be built in two 35" wide sections and joined together. The carcasses are cherry veneer with solid, ship lapped cherry and solid face frames. I planned on using pocket screw joinery for the carcass and face frames, but unfortunately my lumber supplier just switched to MDF core cherry veneer. I'm a little nervous about pocket screws in MDF. Any thoughts? Also, I intended on rabetting the back 3/8" to receive the ship lapped back panels, but I'm also concerned about screwing the panels into only 3/8" of MDF. Anyone out there run into issues like this before and found a way to make it work without compromising structural integrity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Personally id find another supplier. You can always go with dowels and confirmats. As for the back if your stuck with ship lap then a poplar nailer may be the way to go. Normally a solid panel is best with mdf. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
areynoldsre Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Do you already have the material? I wouldn't use pocket screws in MDF any thinner than 3/4" even then I'd be concerned. MDF would be best in a dado with screws going straight into the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpike Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I do already have the material, so I'm trying to think of ways to make it work. I'd take the MDF back and get ply core, but the one and only supplier in town doesn't have it. I'd wait and get it the next time it's in, but I'm on a schedule. I've worked with MDF in the past, but I've never had to screw into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simeond Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I agree about screws into the mdf. Use Dado construction. As for the back - have a slightly shallower rabbit and then nail a "backer strip" to hold in the ship-lapped back. This will allow for the movement in the back and you don't have to worry about the screws into the mdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 MDF would be best in a dado with screws going straight into the edge. Coarse-threaded screws. And lots of glue. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I'd use glued dado joints without any screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I'd use glued dado joints without any screws. I think that would be fine, too. In my case, I really don't have enough big clamps to assemble something like a bookcase. So I tend to think of screws as little clamps that you leave in after the glue dries. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I think that would be fine, too. In my case, I really don't have enough big clamps to assemble something like a bookcase. So I tend to think of screws as little clamps that you leave in after the glue dries. I agree about the screws, but this is MDF. I have ratchet tie downs for my car's roof rack. In a pinch they make decent clamps. A set of four is about $10. You might need to make some corner blocks from scraps to keep them from digging into the wood. I like the kind that don't have hooks, but the ones with hooks will work, too. Maybe I'm overly cautious about screws in MDF, but if it were me I'd use the strap - clamps and skip the screws. I haven't tried it, but I bet strap clamps would work great with bow shaped cauls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I agree about the screws, but this is MDF. I have ratchet tie downs for my car's roof rack. In a pinch they make decent clamps. A set of four is about $10. You might need to make some corner blocks from scraps to keep them from digging into the wood. I like the kind that don't have hooks, but the ones with hooks will work, too. Maybe I'm overly cautious about screws in MDF, but if it were me I'd use the strap - clamps and skip the screws. I haven't tried it, but I bet strap clamps would work great with bow shaped cauls. You have to use the proper screws and the properly pre drill. Minimum industry standard is edges square within 1/10000 of and inch, 3 swell connections (dowels, biscuits, or dominos) across a 30" panel or dado not more than 1/3 the panel thickness, and three metal mechanical fasteners at least 3 1/2 times the panel thickness across a 30" panel. Don 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 One more thing... Are you putting a 96" case in an 8' ceiling room? If so, build a separate toe kick / base, or leave a 2" dead space on top that will be covered by trim. Otherwise, the unit will not be able to be stood up for installation. If not, nevermind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpike Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 One more thing... Are you putting a 96" case in an 8' ceiling room? If so, build a separate toe kick / base, or leave a 2" dead space on top that will be covered by trim. Otherwise, the unit will not be able to be stood up for installation. If not, nevermind... The bookcase is actually being built for a 108" tall niche, so I'm not concerned about the height. I am building a toe kick for the case to stand on as well as a cornice/head that will cover the top of the niche opening. What kind of Cessna do you fly? Flying is my day job and woodworking keeps me sane. I fly Pilatus and various twin turboprops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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