Work bench problems!

[mi_ro_ca]

Workbench pro.skp

The files above are from my latest project. I'm building a bench and it's my first large scale project and i'm having second thoughts on my design.

As you can see on the pictures my original plan was to make the slab ends with half through dovetails (excuse my english, i'm from Denmark, so i hope you guys understand:-), with a 90 degree shift in orientation from one end to the other. The reason beeing i want a completely flat surface for the vices to clamp against.

I also wanted to build the whole thing purely from wood, so no hardware what so ever. The thought was to make a dado in the end pieces and a long tenon on the slab to resist any movement of the slab, but i can't figure out if this is a bad idea! I also can't figure out whether to glue the end pieces to the slab or if i have to just make a bolt run all the way through the slab to secure them???

Basically i'm a mess:-) So please feel free to straighten me out!!! Any suggestions as to what i need to do would be greatly appreciated. Also if you have any questions to the project feel free to ask.

Best regards Michael

[Darnell Hagen]

Your English is fine, so you know your dovetails are known as half-blind.

I made my bench with the dts in the same directions as yours, but to resist the vice forces more than having a flat face.

The only problem I can see is that there is no allowance for expansion of the top. As the seasons change, the top boards will force your joinery apart. I made mine along similar lines, but I used the floor of my tool tray as an expansion joint. As the top expands, the loose, non-glued joint of the tool tray base slips deeper into its groove. My top has a tenon on it's ends much like yours, it's glued only at the first dowel hole, and the other two holes are elongated to allow it to move.

Instead of a tray you could leave a narrow gap the width of a board. This would give the top room to expand, and you hold chisels, screwdrivers, squares, ect in it.

[mi_ro_ca]

Thanks Darnell i appreciate it.

How do people building a solid top without a tray get around this problem? Any suggestions. I know it's silly, but i'm just really happy with the design, i just don't wanna risk the whole thing coming apart after a while:-)

By the way Darnell, i lived in Moose Jaw for two years, and we'd usally go to Saskatoon for a good time, so it brought back memories when i saw your location:-)

Cheers

[preeng2]

The tailboards should be on the front and rear, with the half blind pin boards on the sides. This will allow the width of the top to expand and contract with seasonal movement.

[Darnell Hagen]

I think a lot of people ignore movement, and they may get away with it, but I consider that poor form. The end vise can work, you can glue/pin the middle two or three inches, splitting the expansion between the two dt joints. They should be glueless.

The other end is a little different. It's a solid frame surrounding expanding wood, so without leaving a gap to absorb the difference you're pretty much stuck with spliiting the end board in two. Another option would be to reverse the back corners joinery, the end board would be tails on the vise side, pins on the other.

Now, how does a Dane end up in Moose Jaw?

[mi_ro_ca]

Thanks guys, i'll definately use the suggestions, and hopefully within the next decade or two i'll have i nice bench that will last me longer than the time i put in it:-) By the way, have you guys ever wondered how much you need a work bench to build a work bench??? A lot! Man it's tough working without, but i'll get there:-)

@ Darnell: I was at the Big 2 for flight training, and i had a blast! If you ever have a chance to visit, they have a decent wood shop on base, and the best mess on your side of the atlantic!!! I'm actually coming back to visit in June and i'm VERY excited to see how things are going in Saskatchewan:-)