WoodNoob Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hi all, hope Santa was good to you! I am starting on my first ever workbench and I'm going with this design http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/18985/still-dont-have-a-workbench-this-one-is-easy Now I've already bought all the materials, so please don't try to persuade me to go with a different design! I'm pretty confident it's A) within my capabilities and it will suit my level of work for a few years at least. I have a couple of questions though: The top is connected to the top stretchers using 'S' clips. From research it seems these are commonly used in table making to give the top a bit of room in case of expansion. But if I'm using MDF as per the plans, is there any need for them? MDF is stable and my guess is that the stretchers will only expand 'up' across the grain, so shouldn't put any pressure on the top? (I'm asking because I can't find these attachments and I really wanna get started ASAP while I have time off work). Second issue: it's related. I don't like the look of MDF so much, but I'm happy with using it due to it being cheap, stable, and laminated together it's thick and heavy. But if I wanted to top and edge it with something nicer and harder (and possibly replaceable) how would I go about attaching it? Gluing edge laminated hard wood to the MDF sounds like a bad idea due to the aforementioned expansion, so what are my options? I guess I can just counter sink screws? What about along the edge of the MDF? I assume that glue and screw along the edge is also a no-no? Am I making sense?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilburpan Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Make your own clips. You could use scrap wood or some sheet metal. All you need is something that will fit the slot in the side of the stretcher and that will come into contact with the underside of the top. As far as topping and edging the MDF, if you are going to the trouble of topping the MDF, you might as well make the top out of solid wood. I do think it will be quite a bit nicer and worth the effort, and you can attach it the same way with S-clips or a shop made version of S-clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 You could put a layer of hardboard on top, as in Marc's assembly table video. He starts talking about the replaceable table surface at 3:35, but the stuff about how to attach the top is scattered throughout the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 If you want to edge your double thick layer of MDF you could always biscuit join the edging onto the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodNoob Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 So it seems you are all agreed that it's necessary to allow for movement between top and base (by using S clips) despite the fact MDF is dimensionally stable? Oh well, I suppose I'll have to make some or source some. I was hoping just to use L brackets or something easy like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 I'll stick my neck out and say that you don't need to worry about movement with an MDF top. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 I used pocket hole screws to attach the double thickness MDF top to my bench. I also wrapped the edges with red oak using glue and counter sunk screws to hold it in place. I'm not sure how it will hold up because I have only used it for 6 years so far. I can tell you that if you ever run a router bit into the edge of the table and you should hit a screw, it will scare the bjesus out of you and you most likely will have to change your shorts. Hope that helps on your decision. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodNoob Posted December 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 mmm... okay, six years is a pretty good test. And you've had no warping by the sounds of it? Thanks guys, it's food for thought. Now... if only I could cut straight!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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