Mike M Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I'm planning on building a chest of drawers. The chest will be about 36" wide and 18" deep so the drawers will be a lot wider than they are deep. (the heights will range from about 5 - 7") I'm concerned that the drawers will tend to bind if they aren't pushed in perfectly straight (ie cocked). My plan is to have frames with dust panels between the drawers that will serve as the runners and kickers and the solid wood sides of the chest to guide the sides of the drawers. What is the best technique for keeping the drawers from binding? My first thought is to add a center guide that keeps the back of the drawer centered. Is there a better way? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 You can use dovetail guides but honestly you cant beat undermount slides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 I've needed to do the same on traditional sideboards and shallow Shaker drawers. If you're building a piece in any sort of traditional style, I'd use a straight tongued hardwood center runner, with well fitted kickers and a positive extension stop. I first saw my favorite version on attic built-ins at a Shaker village in MA, and they still function well after 150 years in a building with no climate control. The tongue is ~ 1" tall and 1/2" thick, attached to the dust frame by screws from below. The groove is incorporated into a center slip that also holds both sides of a two-piece, solid wood, raised panel bottom. The top of the tongue is slightly short of the inside top of the groove, allowing the drawer sides to ride on the dust frame. The raised face of the bottom goes down, away from the drawer contents. If the tongue and center slip are quartersawn, seasonal movement in the direction that would bind the runner is not enough to cause problems at either seasonal extreme. Leave the runners and kickers unfinished, except for paste wax. In fact, the originals I saw had no finish other than wax on any of the drawer internals. Once the drawer gets ~ 1" in from the stop, the action gets smoother and perfectly straight all the way to the back stop. In my experience with antiques, wood dovetail slides can seasonally bind, unless they're sloppy at the other extreme. Stay away from beeswax in favor of carnuba on the movement. Beeswax can stick in the summer. Metal slides are great for cabinetry, commercial fixtures, or some specific modern furniture. Personally, I prefer not to use them on any furniture of remotely traditional design. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 I'm planning on building a chest of drawers. The chest will be about 36" wide and 18" deep so the drawers will be a lot wider than they are deep. (the heights will range from about 5 - 7") I'm concerned that the drawers will tend to bind if they aren't pushed in perfectly straight (ie cocked). My plan is to have frames with dust panels between the drawers that will serve as the runners and kickers and the solid wood sides of the chest to guide the sides of the drawers. What is the best technique for keeping the drawers from binding? My first thought is to add a center guide that keeps the back of the drawer centered. Is there a better way? Mike Yes Mike a guide would be a good way. You can even use 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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