Keggers Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 I'm having trouble and need some input. I'm building a rocking horse for my granddaughter and started out making templates of all the pieces. I attach the template to my board and cut the excess off at the bandsaw. I then go to the router table and attempt to route the pattern using a pattern cutting bit or straight bit - I've tried both - keeping the bearing running on the template. On my first two attempts, when going back to the router bit after turning the board, I'm getting a huge chipout in the end grain. If I wasn't using rubber bottomed push blocks, the whole thing would have shop off my router table. These are all mostly rounded pieces with alot of curves. I'm wondering if I should be routing with a hand held router instead of using my router table. I know it's my technique but I'm getting frustrated by not knowing what I'm doing. If I haven't made myself clear, please ask questions and I'll try to clarify. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. I'm thinking about putting a strait bit in my Bosch Colt and trying it again, but I wanted input from you more experienced woodworkers. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 The nature of routing a curve is that for half the curve, you are going "down hill" on the grain and everything is super easy and smooth. The other half, your router always wants to lift hunks from the board. Would rock to have reversible routers n bits. Easiest thing to do is bump-route. For those places you are going down-hill, just route. For places where you'll be at risk of chipout, just bump the bit until the bearing hits the pattern and pull it out. Do a series of these along that chipout-prone area then take a pass to clean up. You can see it (quickly...) in this video (URL jumps right to the right time when the pattern board is setup): 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 A spiral bit also helps to reduce tearout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 A more liesurely video that shows bump routing: -- Russ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Ditto on Paul-Marcel. On places where I'm cutting on a curve, I have one approach that helps me. Route downhill like PM said; but sometimes this is in the same direction as the bit rotation. With removal of larger amounts of material, this can be dangerous so you have to take small bites. The way to accomplish this is by cutting closer to the line with the bandsaw. The main point is to take small amounts of material away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 The other option is to use a double bearing bit. Mount your template on one face of the work and set the shank bearing to run on the template with the template on the router table. Make all the downhill cuts. Flip the piece so the template is on top and lower the bit so the end bearing in on the template. Now all the cuts that were uphill are downhill and you can route without tearout. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I always prefer a handheld router so I can climb cut when appropriate. Don't take big bites, and keep a firm grip on the router. Don't climb cut with a router table, it's very difficult to contol the workpiece and your hand could be pulled into the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 It looks like I get to do some experimenting on a couple of different techniques. I'm definately going to try the bump method as well as the hand held router using limited climb cutting. Should be fun! Thanks for all the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WorkTheWood Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 It looks like I get to do some experimenting on a couple of different techniques. I'm definately going to try the bump method as well as the hand held router using limited climb cutting. Should be fun! Thanks for all the information. Hey Keggers. Check out the following link from JohnNixon at Eagle Lake Woodworking. http://eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Oak-Blanket-Chest.aspx Go to video number 2 for this project, and start watching it at about the 3:19 mark. John shows an example of pattern routing an arch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hey Keggers. Check out the following link from JohnNixon at Eagle Lake Woodworking. http://eaglelakewood...nket-Chest.aspx Go to video number 2 for this project, and start watching it at about the 3:19 mark. John shows an example of pattern routing an arch. Thanks Lou. Nice video. Looks like I need another router bit to simplify things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hey Keggers, That is exactly the bit I was talking about. The technique works great and can be used for patterns that are more complex than the arch. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgrella Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 For "down hill" and "up hill" grain routing on a curve I always use two router bits. A top bearing pattern bit and a bottom bearing flush trim bit. This requires routing half the curve upside down. My process here in text. My process in video. Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 For "down hill" and "up hill" grain routing on a curve I always use two router bits. A top bearing pattern bit and a bottom bearing flush trim bit. This requires routing half the curve upside down. My process here in text. My process in video. Cheers. Very nice video. Thank you for posting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hey Keggers, That is exactly the bit I was talking about. The technique works great and can be used for patterns that are more complex than the arch. Mike Ordered a Whiteside top/bottom bearing bit today Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.