jhl.verona Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I've been planing away at a piece of Ash for my table top - 160cm x 34cm x 5cm. There were quite a few surprises: Knots, good and bad: On the end of the plank so it can be cut away. Cracks: Can't get rid of it, so it'll just add character. But ... also: Undesired guests - illegal aliens! Now I've spent almost a day and a half planing this plank (I'm a slow learner, ok?), and I need some moral support. Is it worth carrying on? I will lose the width if I cut it out, but I can book match and joint the rest - with a little effort. Add filler and pretend it didn't happen? Or should I bite the bullet and go and get another plank with a few less knots, and no creepy crawlies? TIA John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 was that kiln dried? I though kiln drying was supposed to kill them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Those don't look active to me. Did you actually find live borer's? Those look like standard old tracks to me that were filled with their sawdust, not anything unusual. If it were me, I'd work around those defects in any way possible. I'd cut the pieces from around the defects and joint what I need to to complete the width...or go buy another board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 +1 to Tim's comment; they look like old tracks. I have a big 8/4 live edge piece of Pearwood that has dead tracks that radiate out from a common entry point; I'm planning on keeping that in the piece as it is more unique than anything I could do. Depending on your piece, maybe you can keep it there for visual interest? Or flip the board so it's still there but hidden? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 My father goes gaga over wood that has worm-holes like those. To him, it's a real sign of character, like spalting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilburpan Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I'd say it completely depends on what you want for your table top. Some tables are meant to have clear grain across the top. Others are meant to have more figured grain, but still be clear. Some tables are more rustic looking. But all of these are design decisions. I'm in the process of making an entertainment center out of walnut. Some of the pieces I have have knots and splits. I'm using those boards for the vertical partitions, and placing the knots and splits towards the back where they won't be seen. A tabletop will be more visible, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMadson Custom Wood Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 If you like the rustic look, then the only thing I would avoid are those cracks in the end of the board. The rest is awesome character. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 maybe you could create a fake natural edge to the table make a more rustic apearing project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean H Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 As an amateur that likes to make to make things much more difficult than they have to be, I would stabilize the cracks, knots and holes with epoxy or c-a glue and keep going. As for the larger crack, if I thought it had the potential to continue cracking I might look into cutting the area out and laminating in another species of wood for 'accent'. Take this with a grain of salt. I tend to try and keep alot of the natural character of materials, because if I don't it feels like the board beat me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dak Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Its wood. Its a natural product. We should celebrate all of its aspects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Firstly ... Wow, I'm impressed - excellent advice in 4 hours, and I'm on the other side of the Atlantic. was that kiln dried? I though kiln drying was supposed to kill them.... Ah, yes, well - can I have the reserve question please? I forgot to ask at the time, but most wood is kiln dried in Italy, unless you do it yourself, so I'd say kiln dried. Those don't look active to me. Did you actually find live borer's? Those look like standard old tracks to me that were filled with their sawdust, not anything unusual. If it were me, I'd work around those defects in any way possible. I'd cut the pieces from around the defects and joint what I need to to complete the width...or go buy another board. Now you mention it Tim, it could have happened in the living tree. There were no insects, just the tracks. Didn't hear any screaming when I was planing either. +1 to Tim's comment; they look like old tracks. I have a big 8/4 live edge piece of Pearwood that has dead tracks that radiate out from a common entry point; I'm planning on keeping that in the piece as it is more unique than anything I could do. Depending on your piece, maybe you can keep it there for visual interest? Or flip the board so it's still there but hidden? Yes, I'll flip the board - 'cause only a woodworker would look underneath, and I'm not letting any of them in my house My father goes gaga over wood that has worm-holes like those. To him, it's a real sign of character, like spalting. Ok. Then plan B is keep the worm holes, flip the top, and sell the thing to your Dad! I'd say it completely depends on what you want for your table top. Some tables are meant to have clear grain across the top. Others are meant to have more figured grain, but still be clear. Some tables are more rustic looking. But all of these are design decisions. I'm in the process of making an entertainment center out of walnut. Some of the pieces I have have knots and splits. I'm using those boards for the vertical partitions, and placing the knots and splits towards the back where they won't be seen. A tabletop will be more visible, of course. I think I've been living in a shrink wrapped world so long that I forget that it's the imperfections that make things interesting. The wood is Ash, and already has a lovely figure, I'll keep the rest too - as long as the worm holes don't multiply. If you like the rustic look, then the only thing I would avoid are those cracks in the end of the board. The rest is awesome character. The crack is a problem as I don't have length or width to remove it - without having to joint two pieces. Since the top is 30cm (12") wide, I thought it would be fantastic to make it out of a single piece. The crack doesn't run though the plank, so it will go underneath. maybe you could create a fake natural edge to the table make a more rustic apearing project. It already had one, a natural natural edge - but I cut it off. Maybe next time, because under the bark, the wood was pretty sound. As an amateur that likes to make to make things much more difficult than they have to be, I would stabilize the cracks, knots and holes with epoxy or c-a glue and keep going. As for the larger crack, if I thought it had the potential to continue cracking I might look into cutting the area out and laminating in another species of wood for 'accent'. Take this with a grain of salt. I tend to try and keep alot of the natural character of materials, because if I don't it feels like the board beat me. Perhaps I'll run my Dozuki into the crack to remove any loose pieces, then epoxy, or possibily Shellac and sawdust. Its wood. Its a natural product. We should celebrate all of its aspects. Philospher! You're right though, as long as there's nothing living inside that's also celebrating. Many thanks, guys. You've helped put my mind at rest and given me encouragement to carry on. All I have to do now is cut the thing into two 20mm planks. Hmm... I'll be using this: John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 The crack is a problem as I don't have length or width to remove it - without having to joint two pieces. Since the top is 30cm (12") wide, I thought it would be fantastic to make it out of a single piece. Take a look at this before you give up completely on the idea of fixing the crack: -- Russ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thank you for that, Russ. Actually I had intended on keeping the check or crack. Unfortunately I had the very silly idea of cutting the board in two, which didn't work: So it won't be a table top any more. Since things started to go pear shaped, I used the exercise to find the best method to cut such a big board correctly. Amazingly the cheapo Bahco saw (in it's awful orange livery) worked the best. Unfortunately, even if I had cut it correctly there was a case hardening problem, and the two pieces have further curved and bowed. No wind though . I'll think of something to make from it though! Off to a different wood supplier shortly ... Sigh. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 i like that video but what keeps it from seperating later, is it stable at that point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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